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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Stříbrný roh
In line with the ring from the Southwest Route, up the wall at a small crack groove into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Stříbrný roh
Through the corner and crack in the S wall to the ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stříbrný roh
About 5m left of the start of the Southern Wall, up the overhanging wall (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Stříbrný roh
As Southern Wall to the 1st balcony, further up the wall to the 2nd balcony (ring). Along… Rock Climbing
3
Stříbrný roh
From the rock window, left to the balcony, by a small crack to the ledge. Traverse left… Rock Climbing
5+
Stříbrný roh
As Southeast Route, briefly up the crack and diagonally right up the wall over a ring to… Rock Climbing
6
Stříbrný roh
Right of the start of the Southeast Route, directly up the wall over a ring to the ring… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stříbrný roh
In the center of the E wall, directly to the balcony. As Southern Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Stříbrný roh
As Silver Wall, about 8m up and right up the wall over 2 rings (artificial aid) to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stříbrný roh
As Silver Wall to the 1st ring. Directly up the wall over the overhang (2nd ring) into a… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Stříbrný roh
Right of the large rock arch, up the wall over an overhang to a ring. Up a strongly… Rock Climbing
6-
Stříbrný roh
From the balcony of the Southeast Route, right up the wall over a ring, higher up by… Rock Climbing
5+
Stříbrný roh
In the fall line of the Silver Wall's ascent crack, directly over a ring to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
5+
Stříbrný roh
About 6m right of the large rock arch, up the wall to the 1st ring. Diagonally left up… Rock Climbing
4-
Stříbrný roh
From the chimney, go around the rock window to the left and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Stříbrný roh
From the saddle of the rock window, right over the ribs and through a chimney, higher up… Rock Climbing
3
Stříbrný roh
From the NW chimneys to the large rock window. On the E side via a sloping wall to a… Rock Climbing
4-
Stříbrný roh
As Quartz Route, briefly cut to the balcony. Diagonally right up the wall to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
4-
Stříbrný roh
Up the rib in the SE wall, then left to the ledge. Through the corner to the platform,… Rock Climbing
5
Sportovní věž
Through the middle of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Sportovní věž
From the edge 6 m up, traverse left into the crack below the rappel point and up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Sportovní věž
Up the narrow wall using the edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sportovní věž
Via the right valley edge to K of the Spring route and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Sportovní věž
Via a crack in the middle of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Masiv za Sportovní věží
In the left part of the massif via a structured chimney to a ledge and further up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Masiv z r. 1988
Right of the Rychlovka route via the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Masiv z r. 1988
By left upper crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Masiv z r. 1988
Start in the middle of the valley wall through a hole slightly to the right to 1st K,… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Masiv z r. 1988
Start completely to the right in the valley wall by a small corner into a disruption, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Masiv z r. 1988
Along the left valley edge over 1st K to 2nd K, from it slightly to the right and back to… Rock Climbing

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