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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8+/9-
Tovární vyhlídky
From the 1st bolt of the Samičky (Females) route to the right to the 2nd bolt and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Tovární vyhlídky
Right of the corner into a hole and under an overhang (bolt). Over the broken overhang to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bouřlivá stěna
Slightly left of the center of the continuous part of Bouřlivá stěna (Stormy Wall), start… Rock Climbing
5+
Tovární vyhlídky
In the E wall, via a rib to a bolt, then into a crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Tovární vyhlídky
Via a prominent corner to the right of the Lomikámen (Saxifrage) path to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tovární vyhlídky
To the left in the N wall to a balcony and a short crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Tovární vyhlídky
From the W, initially through a crack to a balcony, right through a crack and higher up a… Rock Climbing
4+
Tovární vyhlídky
Right of the path, Dunivá cesta (Rumpling Path) onto a protruding fore-rock and higher… Rock Climbing
5
Tovární vyhlídky
Via a hand crack in the center of the N wall and a narrow ledge (loops) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Tovární vyhlídky
Start left of the path. Initially through a crack into a hole. From there, left through a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Tovární vyhlídky
Through the middle of a distinctly overhanging wall and over the roof to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Tovární vyhlídky
About 3 m right of the SW edge, through a crack into a hole and further up a corner. Rock Climbing
6-
Hřebenová stěna
In the left part of the massif from the cave through the crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hřebenová stěna
In the middle of the right part of the Ridge Wall (right part prominent) via a crack and… Rock Climbing
4+
Hřebenová stěna
To the right of the Loudavá (Dawdling) Crack route (in the right part of the central… Rock Climbing
3
Hřebenová stěna
In the middle part of the wall (behind the block intersected by the Loudavá (Dawdling)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Hřebenový kámen
Start at the SE edge, diagonally right up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hřebenový kámen
In the upper wall via a corner crack, later up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hřebenový kámen
Up the center of the South wall over the K to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Hřebenový kámen
Directly up the SE edge over the K to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hřebenová stěna
To the left of the Loudavá (Dawdling) Crack route, via a short crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Hřebenová stěna
In the middle part of the wall, through the chimney between the massif and the block… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Hřebenový kámen
From the upper chimney to the fore-rock and via the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hřebenový kámen
Up the crack to the platform, stepping over the edge to the 1st K, along it over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Hřebenový kámen
Start in the valley gorge. To the right through the chimney onto the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Hřebenový kámen
From the massif, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Hřebenový kámen
From the massif several meters down, step over to the NW edge and up the notch to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Necky
Up the wall to the right of the 'Nežid' route to the crack and through it to K, then up… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Necky
Through the center of the wall to the right of the distinct rib via a small crack through… Rock Climbing
5+
Necky
Via a distinct rib in the center of the wall to its end (K on the right), further along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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