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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Stěna kamarádů
Right side of the wall via steps to the ring and further along the wall into the crack … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Stěna kamarádů
Left side of the wall via a subtle dihedral to the ring, from there slightly right to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7/7+
Zrzka
Right of the Golden Atlantic route, via 3 BH, up. Rock Climbing
5
Zrzka
In the left part of the wall via an overgrown crack to the right of the corner, up. Rock Climbing
5
Zrzka
The second crack from the left edge of the massif (right of the Green Ridge route), in… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zrzka
Through the middle part of the massif between the Boletická and Right Crack routes,… Rock Climbing
2+
Plotna
From the massif a few meters down and over two ledges, up. Rock Climbing
4+
Plotna
From the East side via a crack over a step, up. Rock Climbing
5+
Zrzka
Approach right of the Left Crack route, difficult into the fault, then up the wall to K… Rock Climbing
4+
Zrzka
Up the right crack/line. Rock Climbing
5+
Plotna
Up the SE edge via 2 K. Rock Climbing
5
Plotna
Up the left valley crack. Rock Climbing
5
Plotna
From the valley via the middle crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Plotna
Left of the Valley Route via K up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Plotna
From the overhanging chimney between the tower and the massif, up. Rock Climbing
4+
Plotna
In the right part of the valley South wall via a crack to a ledge on the edge and left up. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Tiská jehla
In the valley wall through a crack over the overhang and further up the wall to K of the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Tiská jehla
In the left part of the valley wall, up the wall over K into the crack and up it. Rock Climbing
5+
Tiská jehla
From the crack, traverse left into the E wall, up the crack from the right to a step, (by… Rock Climbing
6
Kostelní stěna
In the right part, up the wall (via the small pillar/arete) to K, then up the wall and… Rock Climbing
5
Tiská jehla
From the platform on the SE edge, turn left into the S wall. Up the crack and wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kostelní stěna
From E, to the right of the chimney, follow the edge into the corner, up it under the… Rock Climbing
5
Tiská jehla
In the left part of the plateau (N) wall, to the attachment of the East route and up that… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Tiská jehla
Up the center of the plateau North wall via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kostelní stěna
Start via the SE edge to the right of the 'Vzpomínka na Volejníka' (Memory of Volejník)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kostelní stěna
Up the crack to the right of the NE edge in the plateau wall to K and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Pivovarská stěna
Up the pillar in the right part of the wall to K and further onto the ledge. To the left,… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kostelní stěna
From the 2nd K, go right to the 3rd K and up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kostelní stěna
Directly to the 1st K of the 'Cesta na pokračování' (Continuation Route) and up to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pivovarská stěna
In the right part of the wall, up the center of the fore-rock to its top and then further… Rock Climbing

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