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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Necky
In the left part of the wall, via a small corner into a hole and higher up the crack to… Rock Climbing
6-
Žluté převisy - pravá část
In the right part of the massif, over an overhang via 1st K into a hole, left into a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Žluté převisy - pravá část
In the right part of the E wall, via the right (or left) edge onto a detached block to K.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Necky
To the left of the 'Nežid' route, up the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Žluté převisy - pravá část
From the right part of the E wall along the ledge to the small pillar, along it left to… Rock Climbing
6
Žluté převisy - pravá část
Access same as for the 'Direct' route to K, further up the wall via 2nd K to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Žluté převisy - pravá část
Access same as for the routes 'Direct' and 'Butterfly Flight' to K, then a horizontal… Rock Climbing
6-
Žluté převisy - pravá část
Via the 'Cuckoo's Nest' route to the clock. Left via the crack to K and further up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Žluté převisy - pravá část
From the platform to the right to 1st BH, slightly left to 2nd BH and via 2nd K of the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Žluté převisy - pravá část
To the right of the route 'Stork's Nest' from a small platform to 1st BH. From there… Rock Climbing
5+
Žluté převisy - pravá část
Access via a short sloping wall into an overhanging approx. four-meter corner with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Žluté převisy - pravá část
Up the wall to the right through a hole to K and further up the wall through another hole… Rock Climbing
6-
Žluté převisy - levá část
Via a distinct corner into a small cave, over an overhang into a crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Žluté převisy - levá část
From 1st K of the 'Parachute' route directly up the overhanging wall via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Žluté převisy - levá část
To the right of the route 'Morning Walk' up the wall via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Žluté převisy - levá část
To the right of the crack, up the wall over the fault to 1st K. Up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žluté převisy - levá část
Through the crack to the right of the route 'Traditional Test' into the corner and up it… Rock Climbing
4+
Popelka
Via the chimney on the E edge to the small crack, over the nose into the E wall to K and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Popelka
By jumping from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Popelka
In the right part of the upper wall via a rib to K. Traverse right to the edge and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Popelka
Left valley edge and crumbly crack to K. Along the edge to the 2nd K and higher via a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Popelka
From 1st K via the crack over the overhang and left via the receding notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Popelka
Via the crack in the left part of the E wall to its end and traverse left to K of the… Rock Climbing
5
Popelka
Via the dihedral in the West corner to the balcony and via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Popelka
Center of the valley wall to K. Traverse left below the crack and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Popelka
From K via an overhanging dihedral. Rock Climbing
6
Zrzka
Right of the End of Holidays route, up the wall via 2 K. Rock Climbing
6-
Zrzka
Up the wall to the right of the Right Crack, past K directly up. Rock Climbing
6-
Zrzka
Up the SE edge, left around the broken overhang to K, further up the wall and edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Zrzka
From the East via the broken crack, up. Rock Climbing

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