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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Pivovarská stěna
In the right part, from the fore-rock up the overhanging wall to K. From there, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pivovarská stěna
In the left part, up the wall to the fore-rock and then up the overhanging wall to K and… Rock Climbing
4-
Pivovarská stěna
From the fore-rock, up the crack over a wedged boulder to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pivovarská stěna
Up the center of the wall into the hole (hourglass), then up the wall over the 2nd hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pivovarská stěna
To the right of the 'Kolem sudu' (Around the Barrel) route, up the wall over the rib (K).… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zlatá stěna
From K of the Tyrolean Path, directly along the edge over 2. K n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zlatá stěna
Ascent between the South Wall and Maturita via a hole to K, then up the wall and slightly… Rock Climbing
5+
Zlatá stěna
In the right part of the S wall along the edge to K, left through a hole into a prominent… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zlatá stěna
In the right part of the S wall over an overhang to 1. K, up the wall into a hole to 2. K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Zlatá stěna
Left in the W wall along the edge and over the steps to the ledge to K. Up the wall below… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zlatá stěna
From the start of the rib of the 'Golden Sands' route, along the curved edge past K… Rock Climbing
6-
Zlatá stěna
Left of the Friends' Path via cracks to K. Left into a crack, across the Golden Sands… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Zlatá stěna
Ascent up the wall to the right of the Golden Sands path over the provided ring. Continue… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zlatá stěna
Through the center of the left part of the W wall all the way to its end, over the bulge… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Zlatá stěna
In the N wall directly into the holes and via the small pillar to the 1st K and over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Studentská věž
Along the NE edge past two large hour-glass formations to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Studentská věž
Up the wall of the adjacent pillar and along the rib into the large hole. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Studentská věž
Up the wall of the adjacent pillar into the window, right into the large hole and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Studentská věž
Through the center of the W wall via prominent holes to K. Up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Studentská věž
Along the overhanging SW edge and left up the wall to the holes towards the 1st K. Via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Studentská věž
From K of the 'Direct to the Book' route, directly to K and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Studentská věž
Approach via the Middle Generation route below the overhang, traverse right across the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Studentská věž
Via an inconspicuous pillar from the SW past 3 Ks to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Studentská věž
From the 1st K of the Middle Generation route, go left to K and to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Studentská věž
Briefly up the W chimney and right along the crack to K. Directly into the large hole,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Studentská věž
Up the wall to the left onto the SE edge, along it and over the pinnacle upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Studentská věž
Left of the Old Route via an overhanging crack to the end (loop). Left into an open crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Studentská věž
To the left of the S crack along the edge and up the wall to the K ledge. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Studentská věž
From the SE edge via the South wall to the left into a hole to K, up the wall to the left. Rock Climbing
5+
Studentská věž
Up the middle of the East wall over K (bolt/ring). Rock Climbing

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