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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Kýsova stěna
Up the wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Kýsova stěna
Up the right valley SE edge (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kýsova stěna
To the right of the chimney, up the wall to K. Up the wall using iron holds to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Kýsova stěna
Up the chimney to the right of the Popelčin oříšek route to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Kýsova stěna
Up the crack and higher via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Hadí pilíř
To the left of the niche, up the wall over 2 slanted cracks to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Hadí pilíř
To the right in the W wall via a slanted crack to its end and further up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Kýsova stěna
In the E wall to the right from the slope via a prominent narrow pillar over iron plates… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Hadí pilíř
In the middle of the valley S wall along the small pillar and up the wall over 2 K to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Hadí pilíř
Up the right SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Hadí pilíř
In the left part of the wall to K and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Hadí pilíř
Via the right hand crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Hadí pilíř
To the right in the E wall, via a smooth wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Hadí pilíř
In the middle of the E wall, from the alcove to the step and via a zigzag crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Květnový masiv
Via an overhanging chimney to the left in the W wall, right into the crack to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Květnový masiv
To the left of the Lucky Slippers route, via an overhanging wall to the left into large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Květnový masiv
To the right in the W wall, via an overhanging wall left to the 1st K. Up the wall along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Květnový masiv
Small wall to the right of the crack through a hole to K and wall from the right over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Květnový masiv
In the middle of the valley wall, via a hollow through a hole to K. Directly above the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Květnový masiv
Via the Main Crack route briefly upwards and to the right to the 1st K. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Květnový masiv
To the left of the Pytlák Kódl route via 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Květnový masiv
Via the corner crack of the pillar n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Květnový masiv
Up the wall to the step to K. Iron slab n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Květnový masiv
In the middle of the wall via a prominent corner n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Květnový masiv
Up the wall into a hole and left to K. Wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Květnový masiv
To the right in the E wall, via the corner n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Květnový masiv
Via a fine crack through a small hole into the alcove. Overhang into the crack and up it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Květnový masiv
To the left in the E wall, via a short arête to the ledge, higher up via a closed crack n… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Květnový masiv
To the right in the E wall, along the edge to the sloping ledge to K. Wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Beseda
In the N wall via the overhang from the bivouac site to the right onto the edge, along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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