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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Beseda
From the bivouac site via an overhanging start into a short crack to a cornice.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Beseda
Same start as the 'Surprise' route and from the ledge into the corner crack and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Beseda
In the left part of the wall, via the chimney or pillar to the 1st drilled bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Beseda
Up a small wall in the middle of the massif over several small features to K and from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Beseda
Via the 'Shoulder Crack' route, briefly upwards to the sloping ledge. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Beseda
At the SW edge, via the chimney and crack left to the bolt of the 'Surprise' route and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Beseda
From the 1st bolt of the Old Route, right over two holes and up the wall over 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Beseda
Upwards by the crack to the right of the large niche. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Beseda
In the W wall into the indentation and over the small overhang to a large ledge. Along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Beseda
Via the 'Chasm' route to the 1st K, then directly along the edge over the 2nd K upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Beseda
Roughly in the middle of the wall via a chimney into a large cave and up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Beseda
Up the broken wall to the crack and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Beseda
Through the wide chimney from the inner space to the ledge, along it left and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Beseda
Left of the West Corner route via a crack and wall to K. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Beseda
Left of the deep corner of the inner space up the wall to the 1st K. Overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Beseda
Via the 'Magic Gully' route briefly upwards and then left via the gully and wall to K. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Beseda
From the corner through a fine crack into a hole, traverse left over the edge into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Beseda
Up the overhanging hand crack over K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Beseda
South up a narrow wall into a hole, then up the corner crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Beseda
Up the SW face into a large hole (belay), over the overhang upwards and left into a crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Beseda
Through a deep corner narrowing into a crack higher up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Beseda
Through the middle of the narrow pillar via a crack to the end and left up another crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Beseda
Up a short wall over K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Beseda
Through the corner left of the White Wall upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Žofie
Right on the SW face over holes to a large ledge below the summit and left upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Žofie
Overhang to the pinnacle, from there right to K. Up the wall along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žofie
Left on the SW face over a hole to the ledge and left to K. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Beseda
About 4m left of the East Crack route up a small wall to the summit. (left of the hole) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Beseda
Completely to the right in the massif through a crack (SM) to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Žofie
From the circle of the route "Sleepless" directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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