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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Pomocný masiv
In the western wall, to the left of the West Chimney route over K upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocný masiv
To the left of the Misty Veil route through holes to K and then directly up the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocný masiv
Through the middle of the valley wall directly into the crack, through it and higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Pomocný masiv
In the left part of the wall into the hole to K and left by the crack upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Pomocný masiv
Along the curved SW edge to K, then into the rib and under the overhang to the right to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pomocný masiv
In the W wall to a grassy plateau, then into the chimney and up through it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Pomocný masiv
Along the route "Misty Veil" to 1K., then slightly right along the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Pomocný masiv
Up the wall to the step and along the edge over K upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Pomocný masiv
Through the corner and higher over the overhang upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Pomocný masiv
In the right part of the wall directly into the hole and over the small overhang to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Pomocný masiv
Through a narrow crack on the left in the N wall to the step. Through the crack on the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocný masiv
Up the wall diagonally left to K. Through cracks along the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pomocný masiv
In the S wall of the western part of the massif, to the left of the Valley path by an… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Pomocný masiv
To the right of the "NE corner" along the edge over the 1st K into the notch, over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Pomocný masiv
Through the crack and corner in the S wall upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocný masiv
Through the middle of the right pillar by cracks and over the overhang, higher up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Pomocný masiv
Through the crack to the left of the pillar upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Pomocný masiv
Start like the East Gully route, under the overhang to the left into the crack and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Stěna PK
Along the NW edge of the massif directly upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Stěna PK
To the right of the path Zapadlý chimney by the corner crack upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Stěna PK
Completely on the left in the W wall through the chimney over a wedged stone upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocný masiv
To the left of the path Wide crack through the fissure to the end and up the wall over K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Pomocný masiv
Completely on the right in the E wall through a short chimney under the overhang, to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Pomocný masiv
Up the wall of the narrow pillar in the (E) wall along the cracks. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Stěna PK
Right in the SW wall by overhang and wall to K. Right by wall along the edge n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Stěna PK
In the left part of the wall by corner crack n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Stěna PK
Wall between the left and right crack over K n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Stěna PK
Right crack n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Stěna PK
Small crack to K. Right along the edge n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Stěna PK
Wide crack in the SW wall n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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