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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Žofie
Through the middle of the SE face, over a hole to the ledge towards K. Right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Start like - var. South Route right into the hole to K, from there left and directly up… Rock Climbing
5+
Žofie
Right on the SE face under the overhang to K. Left and up a narrow gully to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Start to the right of the South Route variant. Up the overhanging wall into the hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žofie
Through an oblique crack from the center of the SE face diagonally right into a large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Věž Bürschlických stěn
From left to right along the edge to K, then right to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž Bürschlických stěn
From the massif on the N side of the tower. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Bürschlických stěn
From K left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Up the overhanging crack in the W wall to its end and through the hole to K. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Věž Bürschlických stěn
To the right in the S wall via the slanted crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Up the crack to the left of the Yellow Bag route to the balcony and up the next crack. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Up the NW edge over the balcony and further along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Left of the North Crack route up the wall to K and left to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Left of the West Chimney route up the wall to the small chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Bürschlických stěn
In the left part of the S wall through the small chimney into the large hole. Further up… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Through the middle of the upper S wall, up the crack running to the left. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Through the middle of the overhanging S wall and left to K. Along the crack upwards,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Věž Bürschlických stěn
In the fall line of K via the South wall over the overhang into the hole and to K and to… Rock Climbing
3
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Up the wall to the right of the rock window into the crack. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Up the overhanging W edge to K. Directly up the wall into the hole and from the left over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Věž Bürschlických stěn
On the N side from the gully via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Via the South Route to the clock and up the wall to K. From there into the large hole and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pomocný masiv
Through the middle of the S wall directly over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Pomocný masiv
In the left part of the W wall via a slightly overhanging crack to K and then directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocný masiv
In the left part of the W wall to the ledge to K and directly up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocný masiv
Left on the S wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Trubka
In the left part of the wall by crack and higher by edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Trubka
In the E wall into the hole and up the left crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Trubka
Up the right valley edge (crack). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Trubka
Through the middle of the wall, through the hole to K. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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