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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Stěna PK
Crack in the left part of the SW wall n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Stěna PK
Right part of the wall over K n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Stěna PK
In the right part of the S wall approx. 2 m to the right of the route Vábivá (Appealing),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Stěna PK
SE corner n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Stěna PK
To the right of the route Around the nose, over the overhang to the SE edge and by it n.v… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Stěna PK
Through the middle of the short E wall over the hole n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Stěna PK
Right in the wall by overhang into the hole and by rib n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Stěna PK
To the left of the route, School corner through the chimney n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Stěna PK
To the left of the route, Small edge through a recess (double crack) n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Stěna PK
Right in the E wall, initially by a slightly overhanging edge n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Větrná věž - západní vrchol
Up the left edge of the narrow SW face via the 1st Piton to the ledge and via a crack to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Left in the valley wall, via a crack to the saddle and by the "Old Route" to the summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Větrná věž - západní vrchol
By jumping from Špion to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Up the overhanging wall to the left of the route "Locksmith Training" via the Piton to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Větrná věž - západní vrchol
Overhanging start along the crack to the right into the hole. Up the wall to a large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Jump from the massif to the left of the North Crack route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
From the left to the edge to the 1st Piton. Along the edge into the hole to the 2nd Piton… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Větrná věž - západní vrchol
In the narrow SW face to the 1st Piton. Along the edge to the balcony, right behind the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Up the NE face to the step towards the Piton. Up the wall through the hole to the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
From the crack, left via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
From the crack on the North side, left via the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
To the right of the West edge, via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Through the middle of the upper face via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Via the crack in the right part of the SE face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
From the right crack, after 5 m, left into an elongated hole (with a Piton above it), up… Rock Climbing
4+
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Via the chimney in the left part of the SE face into the cave, then via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Via the crack along the edge to the Piton and left along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pomocná škola
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocná škola
From the NE edge to the Piton and to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pomocná škola
To the right of the "Overhanging Corner" up the wall via the 1st Piton to the notch,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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