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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Jubilejní skála
Completely right on the massif via a small pillar running off to the right over K to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Jubilejní skála
In the SE face left of Zapomenutá up into the recess to K and via a crack to the top … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Jubilejní skála
Middle of the wall via a small pillar (anchors) over the nose and two holes to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Jubilejní skála
Start on the SE edge up into the hole. Further via a small pillar over K to the right and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Jubilejní skála
From the E side via the chimney over loose blocks to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Jubilejní skála
Along the valley edge over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Jubilejní skála
Along the SE edge over the hole to the large anchors. Via a sloping crack to the step to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jubilejní skála
To the left of the chimney via a sloping crack to the 1st K, left into the hole and over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Jubilejní skála
From the chimney in the NW face via a sloping crack to the right to K below the roof.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Jubilejní skála
Through the chimney in the NW face to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Pajda
NE corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Agent
Right rounded valley edge into the hole, sloping wall to the ledge and crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Agent
Via the small pillar and slab to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Pajda
Crack at the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Jubilejní skála
Completely left in the E face along the edge to the left to the anchors, then directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Agent
Left in the valley face over the hole and a structured crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Pajda
Hand crack in the narrow S face to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Pajda
Through the crack in the E face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Ostravská stěna
Along the edge under the overhang, over it to the left and along the edge to the pulpit… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Egoista
Through the crack in the middle of the pillar over K n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Egoista
Through the right crack to the fore-rock and further via the crack n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Ostravská stěna
From the clock to the right into the crack and up it n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Ostravská stěna
To the left, up the wall through a small hole into a large hole (belay). Left beyond the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ostravská stěna
In the left part of the massif, a corner running to the right under the pillar (K),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Ostravská stěna
Along the edge to a step to K. Along the edge n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ostravská stěna
Through the center of the S face, via a notch (large hour) to the left onto a step and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Ostravská stěna
Up the wall along the edge (K). Along the edge to the ring of the South Route and up it…
3
Ostravská stěna
Through the corner crack over wedged boulders n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Ostravská stěna
To the right in the S face, a hand crack to the saddle and briefly n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Rezavá stěna
From the large block to the right to the K. Up to the ledge and through cracks to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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