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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Rezavá stěna
Up the face through holes to a sloping ledge. Overhanging face to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Rezavá stěna
Right in the S face, briefly via a crack to a step. Along the edge and up the face over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Rezavá stěna
Middle of the valley face over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Rezavá stěna
To the left of the large block, initially overhanging and higher up the edge n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Rezavá stěna
From the large block directly into the crack and through it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Bankovní stěna
Right in the plateau wall via a small crack to the K. Up the face to the right along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Bankovní stěna
Through the chimney in the W face to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Bankovní stěna
Middle of the SW face via a crack below the overhang, left via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Bankovní stěna
Along the SW edge over the K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bankovní stěna
Left in the S face to the ledge to the K. Up the face over a big hole to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Bankovní stěna
Start via a wide chimney, then into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Strážce Bělé
In the N face, diagonally right to the ledge in the W face, and via a diagonal crack to… Rock Climbing
5+
Bankovní stěna
W wall over the K and hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bankovní stěna
Right in the S face, over the overhang to the K and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Bělé
From the plateau side, go left to the balcony, then left along it to the SW edge. Rock Climbing
5
Strážní stěna
Approx. 3m to the left of the south edge via a hand crack to a balcony and left via a… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Strážní stěna
Left of the southern edge, through a crack (ring) and a fissure of the route "Colorful… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Strážní stěna
In the right part of the S wall from the niche to the left to the ring and up to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce Bělé
From the base of the W face, left of the chimney of the "Western Route", up the face to… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Bělé
In the valley (W) wall, through the chimney, then left along the steps to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Bělé
Traverse the "Old Route" to the center of the NE face, directly over the overhang, and… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Bělé
From the plateau side, traverse right along the ledge to the NW edge and then along it to… Rock Climbing
5
Strážní stěna
In the right part of the W wall via a slanted crack, higher up by a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Strážní stěna
To the right of the "SW crack" via a chimney to the pillar. Up the wall over a ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Strážní stěna
Behind the pillar in the valley wall via a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Strážní stěna
About 5m to the left of the route "Back from Cuba" via a corner, higher up via a crack… Rock Climbing
5
Strážní stěna
Approx. 2.5 m to the left of the start of the "SW crack" via a short wall and a corner to… Rock Climbing
3
Strážní stěna
To the right of the "West Corner" along an S-shaped crack, higher up by the edge to the… Rock Climbing
8
Strážní stěna
Between the routes "Back from Cuba" and "Sad Smile" to the left via a fading crack to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Strážní stěna
5m to the left of the "Colourful Crack" via a wall over 2 bolts into the chimney from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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