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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7
Mexiko
In the right part of the S wall via an overhanging crack to a balcony and a corner to the… Rock Climbing
1
Strážní stěna
Along the W corner to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Strážní stěna
From the bivouac up the middle of the eastern wall (to the right of the notch) to the top… Rock Climbing
5
Strážní stěna
Approx. 3m to the left of the start of the "Plateau Route" via a rib and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Strážní stěna
In the right part of the north face via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Strážní stěna
To the right of the start of the "North Route" by the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Strážní stěna
To the left of the "West Corner" via a small wall over ledges to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Strážní stěna
On the plateau side via a chimney from the bivouac to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Strážní stěna
To the left of the start of the "North Route" by the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Strážní stěna
In the middle of the plateau wall partly by stemming to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Cortéz
By the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Cortéz
In the right part of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Neznámá stěna
To the right of the "SW crack" by a crack over the overhang to a ledge and along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mexiko
In the middle of the S wall to the left via a fading crack and edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Cortéz
By the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Cortéz
By the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Mexiko
In the middle of the valley wall over ledges to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Neznámá stěna
Along the wall along the edge directly to the 2nd ring of the "Short Route" and by that… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Neznámá stěna
Left of the "Valley Corner" directly up the wall over K (ring) and BH (bolt) to the top… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Neznámá stěna
In the right part of the valley wall via the crack over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Neznámá stěna
Via the valley corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Bratranec
In the right part of the E wall, via the overhanging wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Neznámá stěna
Through the center of the NW wall over the ring, directly (2nd ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Neznámá stěna
In the right part of the corner along the edge over 2 K (rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Neznámá stěna
Along the wall along the W edge to the small pinnacle and up it to the ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bratranec
Along the right valley edge via the wall and rib to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bratranec
Along the left valley edge (hours) over the overhang and via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bratranec
In the middle of the E wall to the BH (bolt), from there to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Císař
From the detached block at the SW edge via an overhanging slab and a crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Císař
Right in the NW wall to the platform. Along the edge to the balcony and by the "Southern… Rock Climbing

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