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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Havraní stěna - jižní
As "Sardeg's Wall" to the 1st ring, from there right to the 2nd ring, by a short crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Havraní stěna - jižní
Left in the W wall by chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Havraní stěna - jižní
Right in the S wall of the pillar to the platform, left by double crack and indentation… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Havraní stěna - jižní
Up briefly by the "West Chimney", right to a large balcony to the 1st ring, from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Havraní stěna - jižní
By crack and fissures in the slabby W wall of the W pillar to the ring, up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havraní kámen
Like "Valley Route" to the first balcony, left through the crack in the pillar (K) up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Havraní kámen
Like "Valley Route" to the balcony, left through the crack over the overhang (K) and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Havraní kámen
From the massif by a jump to the right (lower) summit head. Rock Climbing
2
Havraní kámen
From the massif by a jump to the left (higher) summit head. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Havraní kámen
Left in the S wall, from the boulder, through the crack into the corner under the… Rock Climbing
4
Havraní kámen
From the W by a double crack under the overhang, from the right above it, then through… Rock Climbing
1
Havraní kámen
Right of the massif, descend 3m via a crack and from there traverse to the W edge, along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Havraní kámen
From the start of "South Chimney" through the exposed chimney outside directly over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Havraní kámen
Left of the right valley edge through a narrow crack over the 1st bolt (K) under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Havraní kámen
Like "Hujin Munin" to the 1st bolt (K) and left over the overhang to the 2nd bolt (K), up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havraní kámen
1.5m right of the start of "Valley Route" through the crack to the balcony, then continue… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Havraní kámen
Right of the start of "New Valley Route" through the crack to the 1st bolt (K), over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Havraní kámen
From the gully traverse into the upper chimney, step over and diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
3
Havraní kámen
From the base of the S wall through the wide chimney into the gully and left through the… Rock Climbing
2
Havraní stěna - prostřední
In the W wall through the second chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Havraní stěna - prostřední
Left of "First Chimney" up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Havraní stěna - severní
Through the right crack in the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Havraní stěna - prostřední
In the W wall through the first chimney from the left, later along its left edge. Rock Climbing
6
Havraní stěna - prostřední
Along the right side of the edge further to the bolt (BH) and through the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Havraní stěna - prostřední
In the middle of the W wall to the bolt (BH), overhanging crack (2nd BH) to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Havraní stěna - prostřední
Along the edge to the right of "South Chimney" for about 7m, then left to a platform in… Rock Climbing
3
Havraní stěna - severní
Left of the edge through the crack to the balcony, right up the wall to another balcony… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Havraní stěna - severní
Start like "Right crack" then left up the wall (K) under the overhang. Through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Havraní stěna - severní
Through the middle crack in the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Havraní stěna - severní
Left corner in the W wall to the overhang and left along the wall to the terrace. Wall… Rock Climbing

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