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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Starý hrad
Right of "Rocímante" to a balcony, by a crack into a shallow gully and up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Starý hrad
In the center of the NE wall by a corner-chimney up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vnější stráž
Left in the valley wall by a crack to a ledge, traverse right to the "Valley Route"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Divoký hrad
Up the center of the S wall to a ledge, via the wall into the corner and over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vnější stráž
From the left to the E edge, via a crack to the balcony of the "Valley Route" and then to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vnější stráž
Up the center of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vnější stráž
Up the center of the NE wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vnější stráž
Up the left plateau edge below the block and right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vnější stráž
Up the center of the valley wall, right to a small balcony and via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vnější stráž
Up the corner in the right plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Divoký hrad
From the gorge near Buková Koruna, via the W edge to the balcony and via the SW edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Buková koruna
From the massif, from the birch tree, descend 2m and jump to the exit of the "Plateau… Rock Climbing
6-
Divoký hrad
From the NW side to a ledge below the overhang, left via a crack into the corner, over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Divoký hrad
From the NW side to a ledge below the overhang, right via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Buková koruna
From the right, from the massif, jump to the narrow ledge of the "Route to Dřevák" and… Rock Climbing
7
Divoký hrad
To the right of the "SW Edge" via the wall to a ledge, over BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Divoký hrad
Up the center of the SW wall to a ledge and directly via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Divoký hrad
Directly up the SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Buková koruna
Directly up the W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Buková koruna
To the right of the crack, up the wall directly to the balcony and via the route "King of… Rock Climbing
3
Buková koruna
From the terrace in the middle of the SW wall via a crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Buková koruna
At the blunt N edge, traverse diagonally left on the wall to a ledge. Go right and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Buková koruna
5m left of the "Bell Edge" via a crack to a large balcony and by the "Old Route" to the… Rock Climbing
4
Buková koruna
Via the crack to the left of the "Plateau Crack" to the balcony and by the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing
5
Buková koruna
Up the left plateau edge to the balcony and by the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Balboa
Up the center of the valley (W) wall via a stepped wall and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Balboa
Left of the "Plateau Edge" via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Balboa
Up the South face and a short crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Buková koruna
In the middle of the plateau side via a crack to the balcony and by the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing
3
Balboa
Up the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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