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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Balboa
2m left of the "South Route" up the face over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Buková koruna
From NW to the terrace and via the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Balboa
Approx. 3m right of the "Valley Crack" up the face over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Balboa
Via the corner in the NE face over the overhang and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Věznice
Up the W face of the pillar to a ledge, further to a sloping small balcony (bolt hanger)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Balboa
Up the left plateau edge by the birch tree to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Věznice
Start on the slope, up the E face of the pillar to a ledge, further to a sloping small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Balboa
Through the depression in the middle of the N face directly or higher right along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Balboa
Left of the "Old Route" via the crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Balboa
Up the middle of the E face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Balboa
Right in the E face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věznice
Right of the "Bestie" route up the face to the overhang. Over it (piton) and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Věznice
Via the route "Grandpa's Nightgown" to the 1st bolt hanger, left into the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Věznice
Up the prominent crack (1st bolt hanger) to a large ledge and over the 2nd bolt hanger… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věznice
Up the middle of the valley wall via the overhanging face over a piton to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Věznice
Start in the notch of the SE face via rounded cracks to the 1st bolt hanger, to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Věznice
Left in the valley wall over a small overhang to a ledge and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Věznice
Up the middle of the pillar to a sloping small balcony (bolt hanger) and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Odsouzencova hlava
From the plateau side, descend briefly to the balcony on the NW face and up the middle of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Odsouzencova hlava
Left in the SE wall via a rib to the balcony, then via a crack and a slabby wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Odsouzencova hlava
Up the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Odsouzencova hlava
Via the "rib" to the balcony, then traverse into the valley wall and up the left edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Odsouzencova hlava
Up the middle of the valley wall diagonally left to the ledges and up the left valley… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Odsouzencova hlava
Up the middle of the valley wall (piton) over the overhang and left (2nd piton) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Věznice
Up the SW edge over the rounded sections to a small balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Katovna
Entry left of the route "Spára před městem" (Crack before the Town) via a narrowing… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
1
Odsouzencova hlava
Up the summit wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Katovna
Entry left into the E wall of the main summit, via a crack between the pillar and the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Katovna
Right via a disappearing crack in the E wall of the main summit into a large hole and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Katovna
Via the route "Bosá noha" (Barefoot) to the balcony and right up the S wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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