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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Odsouzencova hlava
Left in the summit wall via an edge and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Katovna
Left of the route "Ve znamení lilie" (In the Sign of the Lily) from the balcony up the S… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Katovna
Entry from the ledge of the S valley pillar (belay station), then freely over steps to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Katovna
Up the SE wall of the south pillar, via a narrow crack to the ledge, then via the rounded… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Katovna
Through the middle of the N wall of the central pillar via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Katovna
Via a thin crack in the W wall of the main summit to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Katovna
From the balcony in the W wall of the main summit along the edge directly into the recess… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Katovna
Through the middle of the S wall of the central pillar via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Katovna
Through the S chimney of the south pillar over a placed block at the top of the pillar to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Katovna
Through the right part of the N wall of the central pillar along a triangular break, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Katovna
Right of the route "Hrdelní právo" (Throat Right) up the wall via BH and a crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Katovna
In the left part of the S wall of the north pillar over the 1st BH to a ledge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Katovna
Entry from the gully in the right part of the S wall of the north pillar over overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Prolejzačka
Through the middle of the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Prolejzačka
Via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Katovna
Along the NW edge of the north pillar to the 1st BH via an hourglass to the 2nd BH via an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Katovna
In the left part of the S wall of the central pillar over a pointed block and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Katovna
Left in the W wall of the north pillar via a widening crack, a crack to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
2
Prolejzačka
Left along the SW edge of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Prolejzačka
Through the middle of the valley wall via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kat
Through the left crack in the N face to the large platform of the "Old Route" and along… Rock Climbing
7
Kat
Through the right crack in the N face to a ledge and along it to the right around the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kat
Along the NW edge over the 1st bolt into the ledge and left through the middle of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kat
In the left part of the S face through a crack to the bolt, over the overhang into the… Rock Climbing
7
Kat
Through the crack to the right of the SW edge onto the small platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kat
Through the narrow valley (W) face to a small platform, (by standing) to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Kat
Along the NW edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kat
To the right on the S wall via a crack to a large platform. Rock Climbing
1
Kat
From the plateau side to a large platform and up a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kat
Along the SE edge to a large platform. Rock Climbing

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