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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Bělská jehla
Along the S edge directly to the clocks of the original route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bělská jehla
Up the center of the plateau (SW) wall to the clocks. Right to the balcony in the SE wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bělská jehla
Up the center of the W wall over the overhang to the ring and up the wall, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bělská jehla
From the W edge, traverse left through the holes all the way to the NE wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bělská jehla
From the S edge, traverse right past the E edge and up the wall below the overhang.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bělská jehla
"Old route" to the clocks, then up the overhanging wall (flat sling) directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Bělská jehla
"Old route" to the balcony and from there directly up the wall (protection), then left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velká věž
Below the N edge, up the wall below the overhang, over it (K) and further straight along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Velká věž
Via a crack in the N wall to the ledge. Rock Climbing
6-
Velká věž
In the middle of the SE wall to a hole, diagonally right to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
5
Velká věž
From the valley (E) side, up the chimney to the pillar. Step over to the ledge and along… Rock Climbing
5
Velká věž
Via a small chimney in the E edge to the ledge and via the "Edelweiss Route" to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velká věž
Via the "Edelweiss Route" to the pillar, diagonally right up the wall (large hourglass)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Velká věž
From the plateau side, traverse right to the crack in the SE wall and follow it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Velká věž
Via the "Old Route" to the ledge and directly up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Velká věž
Up the plateau wall into a crack and follow it to K. Through the crack into a hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velká věž
Via "Agly's Route" into the niche, then via a small chimney to the 1st K. Via a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Velká věž
From the saddle, via a short crack into the niche and traverse left to the NW edge. Left… Rock Climbing
5
Velká věž
Start right of the NW edge. Diagonally left behind the edge to the ledge and along it… Rock Climbing
?
Děčínská stěna
See photo Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Děčínská stěna
Up the middle of the S wall over 2 K to the top. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Děčínská stěna
From the block along the NE edge, higher up the crack to the top (n.t.). Rock Climbing
6
Mogman
Up the narrow valley wall over the pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mogman
West wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Mogman
To the right of "St. c." (Old route) via an overhanging wall to the balcony and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
SpongeBob (boulder kámen)
Along the diagonal crack in the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mogman
To the right on the North side via a corner to the pillar. Rock Climbing
3
Rybniční hráz
Along the left part of the valley wall to a ledge and to the right via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rybniční hráz
To the right of the "Valley edge" via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mogman
To the left of "St. c." (Old route) up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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