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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Ledová korunka
Valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Ledová korunka
Middle of the West wall, up the wall and over the overhang directly to the summit. … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ledová korunka
In the left part of the East wall, up the wall and along the cracks to the pinnacle and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Školník
Crack in the South wall n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Ledová korunka
In the South wall along the small crack (BH) to the balcony. Freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ledová korunka
Along the SW edge, higher up via a crack, further along the wall to a balcony and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Ledová korunka
In the right part of the South wall, up the wall to the ring, through the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Školník
On the right in the valley wall via 2 BH into the route "Poškoláček". Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Školník
Right edge via 3 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Chmelák
South wall along the valley edge via 5 BH n. t. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Chmelák
Right part of the West wall via 3 BH n. t. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Zimní věž
On the right of the uphill side, follow the crack or the wall to the right along the edge… Rock Climbing
7
Školník
On the left in the valley wall via 3 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Chmelák
Left part of the West wall via 4 BH n. t. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zimní věž
To the left of the "South Crack", follow the crack along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zimní věž
To the left of the "North Crack", follow the overhanging edge to the ledge, then directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6-
Zimní věž
From the boulder, traverse into the valley wall, then directly up to the summit via BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Zimní věž
On the North side, from the corner, follow the overhanging crack to the balcony, then… Rock Climbing
3
Zimní věž
From the uphill edge, traverse left and follow the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zimní věž
Through the right part of the East wall via BH to the pre-summit. As "Left East Route" to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zimní věž
To the left of the "Right East Route", ascend the wall (BH) to the pre-summit, step over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Červená stěna
Left in the valley wall along the edge, diagonally right (1st bolt) into a hole. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Červená stěna
Right of „Šepot" (Whisper), via a recess/indentation (bolt), with the help of a pine tree… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Červená stěna
Via the right corner, difficult to the right to the „Lehké nohy" (Light Feet) ring, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Červená stěna
Right of "Arboristická" (Arborist's Route), via a shallow indentation to an elongated…
7
Červená stěna
In the right part of the massif, from the balcony via the left corner and right over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Červená stěna
Right of „Dívčího strečinku" (Girl's Stretch), up the wall to the 1st bolt, from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Zimní věž
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Říjnová stěna
In the right part of the massif via the overhanging wall directly over 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Říjnová stěna
Right of the route „Lipový čaj" (Lime Tea), up the wall into the gully, through it past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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