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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Říjnová stěna
Left on the North wall via a chimney and edge to the ring, directly via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Říjnová stěna
In the left part of the valley wall, right via a receding crack, higher up via a crack in… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Říjnová stěna
Left of the "Léčivé Svijany" route via the wall along the edge to the disruption of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Říjnová stěna
Via the wall to the overhang (ring), over it and higher up via the wall to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Říjnová stěna
Via a fissure over the overhang, then via the wall to the crack of the "Rýmička" route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jarní věž
Via the South edge under the small overhang, left to the ledge of the "Valley Route". Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jarní věž
West wall along the left edge over the ring to the ledge and via the "South Edge" to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Šiška
Via the sharp valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jarní věž
Left of the "East Chimney" via the overhanging wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Jarní věž
Via the V-edge to a small plateau. Via the chimney to the plateau of the "Old Route" and… Rock Climbing
6
Jarní věž
Left on the North wall via a small corner to the balcony to the ring. Via the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Jarní věž
On the valley wall via a crack upwards and right to the ledge. Up the wall and left via… Rock Climbing
1
Jarní věž
Via cracks on the upper wall to the plateau and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Jarní věž
On the South wall via a crack, corner and chimney to the plateau of the "Old Route". Then… Rock Climbing
7
Stěžeň
Left part of the South face to BH, along the edge to 2nd BH and up the wall (n. t.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Tajný masiv
Through the middle of the valley wall via 2 bolts through a crack to the balcony. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Stěžeň
Through the middle of the South face via a crack and wall to the summit via the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
?
Tajný masiv
From the 1st bolt, right over the overhanging bulge to the balcony at the 3rd bolt of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Stěžeň
Through cracks in the valley-side wall over overhangs (n. t.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Veselá jehla
In the left part of the South face to the SW edge, over it via the ledge to the balcony… Rock Climbing
3
Veselá jehla
Through a prominent corner to the ledge and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Veselá jehla
From the saddle to the right and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Veselá jehla
Up the East face (K) to the balcony and up the wall to the summit (n. v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Veselá jehla
Through the middle of the valley-side wall along cracks to the balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
3
Veselá jehla
Through the middle of the East face via a crack, then up the wall to the summit (n. v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Veselá jehla
From the boulder at the SE edge, left to the edge, along it to the ledge. Right along the… Rock Climbing
3
Veselá jehla
From the saddle to the left to the edge, along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Rozsocháč
From the gully between Veselá jehla and the tower, right through the crack, higher up… Rock Climbing
3
Rozsocháč
Through the crack in the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rozsocháč
Right of "St. c." through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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