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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7
Bělský masív
From the 2nd BH up the wall of the small pillar directly under a small overhang to the BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Štokrle
Up the center of the S wall over 3 BHs to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Bělský masív
Briefly into the depression and diagonally left (BH) into the diagonal crack and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6
Štokrle
Along the edge directly to the 1st BH of the "Gender-Balanced" route and along that to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Danger +1
4
Štokrle
Via the corner of the route "Gender-Balanced" and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
7
Motýlí kužel
In the N wall, center, then left and back right to the NW edge. Along that over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Štokrle
Up the corner 4m and traverse right to the edge to the 1st BH. Continue along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Motýlí kužel
Up the center of the W wall via 2 rings into the crack of the "Valley Route" and then to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Motýlí kužel
Along the NW edge (left valley side) to the ledge. Up the crack in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Motýlí kužel
Left crack in the S wall to the fore-peak and "Southern Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Motýlí kužel
Up the Valley (W) wall along the NW edge (2dK) to the ledge, then along the edge via K,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Motýlí kužel
From the fore-peak, traverse the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Motýlí kužel
Right on the south side by wall (dk) and crack to the large balcony and "J. route" to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Dědova hlava
Via the S wall under the overhang to K. Over the overhang via a crack and the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dědova hlava
Via the S wall diagonally left to the edge and via it to a ledge. Via the wall along the… Rock Climbing
2
Dědova hlava
Through the middle of the plateau wall upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Motýlí kužel
From the fore-rock via the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dědova hlava
To the left in the valley (NW) wall to a ledge and via the wall (dK) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Motýlí kužel
From the plateau side diagonally right up to the NW edge and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5
Dědova hlava
From the plateau side left to the SE edge and via it over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kukla
Through the middle of the valley wall along a crack (BH), to the right via a brittle wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Kukla
From the BH via a crack diagonally left to the edge and up there. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Plotnová věž
Via the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Plotnová věž
Via the smooth S wall slightly to the right (dBH), from the middle of the wall slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Plotnová věž
Via the left part of the valley wall over the overhang (K) to the balcony in the N wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Plotnová věž
Via the narrow valley (W) wall under the overhang, traverse right behind the edge and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Plotnová věž
From the edge of the massif below the N wall diagonally right into the chimney and via it… Rock Climbing
6
Plotnová věž
In the middle of the N wall via a corner, then left above the overhang. Via a broken… Rock Climbing
?
Plotnová věž
Left of "var. Udolni c." Over the overhang into the crack, then via it to the balcony. … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Plotnová věž
To the left in the N wall, start at a short crack, via the wall over two ledges (crossing… Rock Climbing

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