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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Rozsocháč
Left on the East face, through the crack to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rozsocháč
Through the crack on the right side of the East face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rozsocháč
From the ledge under the valley-side wall, up the middle of the wall slightly left under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Rozsocháč
Right on the valley-side wall through a crack and a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rozsocháč
Up the SE overhanging pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stodola
SW corner under the overhang, from the left over it (BH) to the balcony and up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
1
Rozsocháč
From the saddle through the corner on the North face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Stodola
Right of "Klublinky" behind the edge, following a disappearing crack, higher up along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Stodola
Right part of the West face to the end of the crack (BH), to the balcony by the pine tree… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stodola
Left part of the West face along the crack (BH) to the balcony by the pine tree (chain)…
6
Saturnin
From the splinter, up the center of the E face along cracks to a ledge and by a crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Sestry
Along the NE edge, later to its right up the wall to the saddle between the summits and… Rock Climbing
6
Sestry
From the balcony (hourglasses), directly up the NE edge to the summit to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Sestry
From the ledge in the valley wall, left of the route "Valley Crack", up the wall into a… Rock Climbing
6
Sestry
In the valley (W) wall, easily to the ledge. About 4m right of the "Right Valley Chimney"… Rock Climbing
7
Sestry
From the ledge in the valley wall, up the crack through the middle of the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Sestry
Through the middle of the plateau wall from the left around the hole (hourglass), then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Sestry
From the ledge in the valley wall, up the right chimney to the balcony of the "Southern… Rock Climbing
4
Sestry
To the right in the N wall, up the crack to the large hourglasses. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
5
Sestry
From the ledge in the valley wall, up the left chimney to the saddle between the summits.… Rock Climbing
5
Sestry
Up the double crack left of the route "Like New" to the balcony in the S wall and along… Rock Climbing
5
Sestry
From the SE edge, along the ledge 5m left and up the wall to the ledge in the W wall. Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sestry
Up the East wall from the gorge over 2 rings to the saddle between the summits and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sestry
In the E wall, 3m left of the NE edge, up the corner and crack to the saddle between the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Sestry
In the E wall, left of the double crack, diagonally left over the holes (hourglasses) to… Rock Climbing
4+
Bělský masív
Left on the south side (on the upper tier) via a crack to the detached block, along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Bělský masív
Up the narrow pillar in the middle of the massif via a crack and the wall over 5 BHs to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bělský masív
Up the center of the south side (on the upper tier) via the wall along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
?
Bělský masív
Up the chimney in the middle of the wall (right of the "Middle Crack") to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bělský masív
Through the crack in the right part of the massif via 2 BHs to the 3rd BH. In the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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