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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Plotnová věž
Via the "Valley edge" under the overhang, crack to the balcony in the N wall. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
5
Plotnová věž
To the right in the N wall from a boulder via the wall to the balcony and via a crack to… Rock Climbing
2
Plotnová věž
Up the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
6
Masivy za Lokomotivou
Via the overhanging start 1.5 meters left of the SW edge, up the small chimney/corner to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Plotnová věž
Via the corner crack in the middle of the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Plotnová věž
To the left in the plateau wall onto the SE edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Plotnová věž
Via the wall to the left of the SE edge to the balcony and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vagónek
Up the left part of the NE wall into the chimney/corner, right into the small chimney…
5
Vagónek
Up the right part of the NE wall via the small chimney/corner to the BH and up the wall…
2+
Vagónek
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Strojvůdce
Like the 'Switch' route, traverse under the overhang to the bolt and higher over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6
Strojvůdce
To the left of the 'Old Drunkard' route, via the edge to the ledge and over two ribs to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strojvůdce
Along the NW edge to a ledge, up the wall under the overhang, then left through the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Strojvůdce
To the left of the 'Výhybka' (Switch) route, along the rib to its end and up the BH wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Průvodčí
To the right of the 'Valley Crack' via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strojvůdce
In the valley, along the South edge, higher up via the South edge to the summit. … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Průvodčí
From the gully to the left along the ledge and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Průvodčí
To the right in the valley wall along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Strojvůdce
In the middle of the SW wall via a bolt to the summit. (abseil). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Průvodčí
To the left in the valley wall along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Průvodčí
Up the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strojvůdce
In the upper part, from the fallen block along the South edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Děravec
To the left of the start of the 'Holey Way' directly via the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Děravec
To the right of the 'Holey Way' up the overhanging wall and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Děravec
Up the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Děravec
From the north through the hole and to the right via a crack over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Průvodčí
In the middle of the upper wall via a crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Průvodčí
From the gully/ravine via the left edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Průvodčí
To the right in the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Děravec
To the right up the valley wall via steps to the balcony, then via a crack under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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