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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Chytač duší
Up the middle of the valley wall via overhanging steps directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Chytač duší
Up the middle of the North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Chytač duší
Up the middle of the South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Chytač duší
Up the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Děravec
Up the South wall and gully into the 'Holey Way' and then to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Děravec
Up the left upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Chytač duší
Up the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Chytač duší
Up the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Aura
Via the N wall to the left of "Rock Window" into a hole to the hourglass to the right via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Aura
In the left part of the N wall to the 2nd bolt of the route "My name" and via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Chytač duší
Along the right S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Aura
Via the valley corner to the ledge to the 1st bolt and via the narrow overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Aura
Completely to the left in the N wall via a delicate wall to the ledge to the 1st bolt of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Aura
In the N wall via a chimney through the rock window to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Aura
Via the short northern thin crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Aura
Completely to the right in the S wall, traverse slightly to the platform to the 1st bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Aura
Via the short W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Aura
To the left in the S wall via a wide crack (jammed boulder) through a triangular rock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Aura
To the left of "Antidepressant Fish" to its 1st bolt. From there directly and left into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zarostlý kámen
From the 2nd bolt of "Cloud Atlas" left over the edge and along it to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zarostlý kámen
Via the overhanging valley wall over 2 bolts. Higher up slightly right over a ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Zarostlý kámen
From the 1st bolt of "Cloud Atlas" traverse left (hourglass) and along the rib over steps… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zarostlý kámen
To the left of the "NW route" via the edge to the balcony, via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zarostlý kámen
Via the right part of the NW wall to the balcony, via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zarostlý kámen
Through the center of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Zarostlý kámen
To the right in the upper wall via a corner to the balcony, to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Zarostlý kámen
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zarostlý kámen
Via the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Baba Róga
From the block on the S side briefly right and directly n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Baba Róga
Left of the block by the rib and gully n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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