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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Baba Jaga
Via the right lower edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Baba Jaga
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Modrý masiv
In the middle of the S (valley) wall over the BH to the ledge, by the crack to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Modrý masiv
From the gully over steps to the right into the NW crack and at the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Modrý masiv
Right in the valley wall traverse to the SE stepped edge, along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Modrý masiv
Left in the valley wall by the SW edge (BH) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Modrá hlava
S wall to the hole, over the overhang and diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Modrý masiv
Start in the left part of the NW wall, by the edge to the balcony, then a diagonal crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
?
Modrý masiv
By the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Modrá hlava
NW edge from the base of the tower directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Modrý masiv
In the left part of the valley side of the NW pillar, by a thin crack from the gully to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Modrá hlava
From the upland side, right into the N wall and by the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Modrá hlava
From the upland side, traverse right into the Z wall, here by the rib, then by the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní duch
Left of "Krátká route" wall to the balcony and "Valley route" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesní duch
Like "Valley route" but from the traverse to the balcony, V wall directly over the K to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Modrá hlava
Upland (E) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní duch
Right in the V wall to the balcony and "Valley route" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lesní duch
Left part of the Z wall to the balcony in the valley wall and "Valley route" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lesní duch
Left of "Dubská route" short wall to the balcony and "Valley route" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lesní duch
Valley edge overhanging nose to the balcony and "Valley route" to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Duch pole
Up the SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lesní duch
Up the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lesní duch
To the right in the W wall along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Duch pole
Through the corner near the NW part to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Duch pole
Up the center of the E wall to the ring and from the left over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Duch pole
To the right in the E wall, then through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Duch pole
Up the center of the W wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pastýřská jehlička
To the right in the S wall via the rounded edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2
Pastýřská jehlička
Via the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pastýřská jehlička
To the left up the NE wall over ledges and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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