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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Pastýřská jehlička
Through a crack in the W wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pastýřská jehlička
Via the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pastýřská jehlička
Along the SW structured edge via the 'beak' (rock feature) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bělský převis
To the right of 'Unknown', via the wall below the roof overhang, over it (K) to the top … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pastýřský masiv
Along the S wall near the left edge, then via the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Bělský převis
In the right part of the S (valley) wall via the corner crack to the ledge, then up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Bělský převis
In the left part of the valley wall directly via BH into the corner and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bělský převis
To the left of 'Dracula's Tears', up the center of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Bělský převis
Along the S structured edge to the ring, via the edge or wall slightly to the right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Bělský převis
To the left of the dividing corner, center of the NW wall of the pillar via the hole,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Bělský převis
Via the route 'Direct Corner' to the S saddle and up the center of the upper pillar to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Bělský převis
Via the route 'Direct Corner' to BH and to the right via the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Bělský převis
Center of the overhang to the ring and up the overhang into a wide crack, then up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Panoptikum
Along the NW edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Panoptikum
Along the SW edge via BH and hourglass (threads) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7
Panoptikum
From the right, via the overhang to the BH (bolt/fixed anchor) and along the left valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Panoptikum
From the left, via the wall to the left valley edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Panoptikum
Center of the W wall via BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Šikmovous
In the right part of the West wall to the fore-summit and diagonally right via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Panoptikum
Center of the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Panoptikum
Via the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šikmovous
In the left part of the valley (NW) wall through holes to BH and via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Soví dům
Start in the right part of the South (valley) wall of the massif in the fall line of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šikmovous
Via route "Measured Time" into the recess under the overhang and right via another rib to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Šikmovous
Middle of the massif diagonally right via rib into the recess under the overhang (ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Soví dům
Middle of the NE articulated wall into a small indentation, further via steps to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Soví dům
Start in the left NE part of the massif via articulated wall slightly from the left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Krmelec
In the right part of the wall via the roof over 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Holubinka
Start NW via inner overhanging edge (slings), South wall right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Holubinka
Middle of the South wall to the ledge and freely to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay

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