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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Stěna pod vysílačem
South wall over the overhang and via the slab wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Krmelec
In the left part of the massif via crack to the balcony and over the roof-like overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stěna pod vysílačem
Left of "Borhákovka" via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Krmelec
In the middle of the massif freely to the balcony, via a wide central crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zapomenutý kámen
To the right of the "Loutka v zrcadle" (Puppet in the Mirror) route, up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Zapomenutý kámen
From the bolt (BH) directly up the wall to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Bynovská stěna
Overhanging left valley edge to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bynovská stěna
Right of "SDH" via K to the flake, traverse into the wall and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bynovská stěna
South wall via 3K to the summit. (rappelling) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Bynovská stěna
Crack in the East wall to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zapomenutý kámen
To the right of the "Alzheimer" route, up the overhanging wall along the crack (bolt - BH… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hvězda severu
From the upper side, traverse right to a large balcony on the NE wall and up it over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Jílovská věž
Up the right upper edge to a small balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jílovská věž
Up the upper (S) wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zapomenutý kámen
Left part of the overhanging NW wall to the bolt (BH) and left via the ascending crack,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hvězda severu
Left of "Polárka" (Polaris), up the wall over a ring (K) directly to the ledge and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jílovská věž
Up the overhanging (E) wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jílovská věž
Directly up the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jílovská věž
On the west wall via a crack to a block and right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hvězda severu
Up the wall along the upper edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Hvězda severu
Start via the "Stará cesta" (Old Route), traverse left along the ledge under the sloping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Hvězda severu
Right on the valley wall via an overhang (ring/karabiner - K) and up the wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Medvědí ostrov
Up the SW wall of the pillar to the bolt (BH), directly and along the edge to the balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hvězda severu
Left on the valley wall over a ring (K) and along the edge over the 2nd ring (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hvězda severu
Bottom left on the upper side, traverse in a horizontal crack to the W edge (or directly… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Medvědí ostrov
To the right of "Pecivál" (Lazybones) via the SW crack (protection) to the saddle, left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Medvědí ostrov
Northern crack running left over a small balcony into the NW (valley) wall onto a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Medvědí ostrov
Up the right part of the valley wall via the shoulder crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Medvědí ostrov
From the flat boulder near the W edge into the valley wall left to the bolt (BH),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Medvědí ostrov
To the right of "Smutný medvídek" (Sad Bear) via a broken crack over an overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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