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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Trojmezí
Completely on the left in the valley wall along the crack to the bolt and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Majda
Up the iron-stained wall to a small platform on the W edge and along it over the point… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trojmezí
Through the right part of the reclining NW (side) wall over breaks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
6-
Trojmezí
To the left of the route "Three Friends from Pomezí" up the overhanging wall through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2
Majda
Along the NW edge upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Majda
Up the wall along the E edge to a ledge, then along the edge upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Majda
Through the valley S indentation, up the iron-stained flake to a ledge and then up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Majda
Along the left plateau edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
5
Majda
Through the middle of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Majda
Through the valley break into a longitudinal hole, further to a ledge (point), up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Majda
Up the narrow E wall, higher along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6+/7-
Předseda
In the right part of the massif, from the right over an overhang to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Falterovka
Through the left part of the W wall along the crack over steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
7+/8-
Předseda
In the left part of the massif, over an overhang into an overhanging crack and through it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Předseda
In the left part of the overhang, up the overhanging wall past a bolt to the 2nd bolt and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Falterovka
Up the iron-stained wall (long flake) to the ledge and to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Falterovka
In the right part of the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
3
Falterovka
Along the S (valley) stepped edge to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Balvan Babu
From the left, from the stone around the W edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Havraní jehla
With the edge onto a slanting platform, left via a double crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Balvan Babu
From the right to the E edge and along it upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Balvan Babu
Left of the "Old Route" through the middle of the leaning wall to the top. Rock Climbing Laid wall
5+
Balvan Babu
Along the edge directly upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Balvan Babu
In the left part of the NE wall, over the indentation slightly diagonally "left upwards". Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Balvan Babu
To the left of the S edge, braced against the wall over an overhang and directly upwards. Rock Climbing
2
Balvan Babu
Left of the S edge via a leaning wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4-
Havraní jehla
From the SE via a notch upwards and left to a small platform. Right via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Havraní jehla
From the ring of the Babí léto (Indian Summer) route directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Havraní jehla
Via the V-edge and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Havraní jehla
In the valley wall via an overhanging corner under the crack to the large hourglass.… Rock Climbing

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