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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Havraní cimbuří
From the saddle via an overhang into a crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Travertina
From the uphill side from the NE corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Havraní cimbuří
To the left in the valley face from the corner up under the overhang. Up the crack and… Rock Climbing
3
Travertina
To the right in the S face by the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Travertina
In the middle of the NE face by two small pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Travertina
From the large platform on the right via a prominent corner to the first pinnacle of the … Rock Climbing
4-
Travertina
In the middle of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Travertina
Straight up the sloping crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Travertina
Through the corner in the NE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Travertina
Straight up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Travertina
From the large platform on the left up the wall (BH) to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Travertina
To the left in the corner, straight up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Travertina
Left in the S wall onto the right ledge, via the crack to the 2nd ledge, then further… Rock Climbing
4+
Travertina
From the block below the wall via the crack under the overhang, then left under it and… Rock Climbing
5+
Travertina
Up the center of the S wall to K and slightly left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Travertina
Left of the start of the 'South Route' via the corner to the pillar and along it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Travertina
Right up the narrow SW wall to the first pinnacle, along the ridge over the next pinnacle… Rock Climbing
4-
Travertina
Along the prominent crack on the left in the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Travertina
Left of the 'Opening Game' route directly up the wall (K) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Travertina
Left up the narrow SW wall to the first pinnacle of the 'Hřebenovka' (Ridge Route), then… Rock Climbing
4-
Travertina
Left of the corner via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Travertina
Right in the S wall via a zigzag crack to K. Diagonally left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Travertina
Up the wall briefly to a step on the left into an indistinct recess and through it… Rock Climbing
5
Travertina
Left of the edge through the recess (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Travertina
Up the NE wall to K and over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Travertina
Along the overhanging edge or right via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Travertina
Left along the rounded edge (protection in the crack on the left) to K. Along the smooth… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bentová tvrz
Through the center of the W wall of the separate turret, higher up by an indentation, by… Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
By the left S edge (1st K) to a ledge. By the wall (2nd K) along the overhanging edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
To the right of the SW edge by the wall over the overhang to a ledge and to the left… Rock Climbing

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