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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Kóta 5
Along the SW edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 5
Up the wall to K and right through the indentation to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kóta 5
In the left part of the S wall via cracks in the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kóta 5
Along the edge over the overhang directly to K of the route "What does the police want". Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 5
In the middle of the S wall via a crack to the end, up the wall to the right and via an… Rock Climbing
4-
Kóta 5
In the W narrow wall via a small crack to a small balcony and via the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 5
Right in the S wall over the overhang to the ledge. Right into the slanted crack, up that… Rock Climbing
4-
Kóta 5
Prominent crack over BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kóta 5
Left of the crack along the edge to K. Up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kóta 5
From the corner, up the wall and crack to the 1st K and over the 2nd K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kóta 5
Right in the S wall via an indistinct crack to the balcony. Overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 8
From the corner right over the BH to the edge and along it to a ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Pazourek
Up the left corner to a ledge, right to the BH, up and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kóta 8
Through the corner in the left part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pazourek
Through the middle of the wall over BH to ledges and through the corner to the shared BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pazourek
Up the right part of the wall by steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Fascinace
In the right part of the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Fascinace
From the block in the middle of the wall, directly up the overhanging wall over the BH to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kóta 8
Through the middle of the right part of the wall over the BH to a ledge and through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Fascinace
To the step and through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kóta 8
Up the right part of the wall by steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Fascinace
In the left part of the wall, directly up the smooth wall over the BH to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Kvádrberk
In the left part of the valley wall of the quarry, up the wall into the corner to the BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Císařská promenáda
To the left of "Sissi", up the overhanging crack and pillar to the end. Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Terč u Labské stráže
In the North wall, 2nd fore-rock along the right edge and along the Three Jumps route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Terč u Labské stráže
Through the middle of the S face of the 1st fore-summit to the top of the fore-summit and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Terč u Labské stráže
In the East wall, 2nd fore-rock up an open crack to the summit (kinderkopfs) and freely… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Kvádrberk
To the left of the route "Arnold's School" up the iron-stained wall (BH) and edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Terč u Labské stráže
In the North wall, 2nd fore-rock to the left of the Edge, up the wall over iron… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Císařská promenáda
On the valley edge, up the wall obliquely left into holes, directly up the wall into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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