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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Věž Loubské rokle
To the left of the carved niche, up the overhanging wall (K), higher up the blunt edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž Loubské rokle
Start from the valley, briefly up the corner and right to the valley edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Cvičná stěna
Along the right edge of the massif over 2 rings (2 hourglasses) to the balcony. Further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Cvičná stěna
To the left of the route "Courage" up the wall over a ring to the overhang (hourglass,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž Loubské rokle
In the S wall through a crack and up the wall to the summit (n.v. - possibly 'na vrchol'… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž Loubské rokle
From the S, via a falcon-like crack and up the wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Cvičná stěna
From the 2nd K of the route "Power of Motivation" directly up the slab wall to the ledge. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Cvičná stěna
Along the interrupted crack in the middle of the wall, over the overhang (ring and sling)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Věž Loubské rokle
From the block on the plateau side, a step-over, then up the wall and through the gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Cvičná stěna
About 4 m to the left of the right edge of the massif, up the corner, higher through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Cvičná stěna
To the right of the route "Blessing from Heaven" up the wall to the overhang (hourglass,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kumpoltická stěna
In the middle of the W wall, diagonally right along a receding notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5
Vzkříšená stěna
To the right of the route 'Style Change' up the wall (K), higher along the edge (point +… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Cvičná stěna
To the left of the overhang, up the wall to the hourglass and diagonally right (K).… Rock Climbing
5+
Kumpoltická stěna
To the left in the W wall, via a sloping slab slightly from the left over BH directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Cvičná stěna
To the left of the route "Blessing from Heaven" up the wall along a blunt edge, a ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vzkříšená stěna
To the left of the Central Chimney (III.) up the wall over 2 rings to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vzkříšená stěna
To the left of the Prolog route up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vzkříšená stěna
To the right of the Smrt z vyděšení (Death by Fright) route diagonally right along the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Vzkříšená stěna
To the left of the Prolog route up the wall along the rounded edge to the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Vzkříšená stěna
From the terrace in the middle of the S wall, up the wall and through a falcon-like crack… Rock Climbing
5+
Vzkříšená stěna
Through cracks and corners in the left part of the SW wall to the ledge (K). Up the wall… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vzkříšená stěna
Up the wall 2m to the right of the valley edge to the ledge and to the 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Vzkříšená stěna
To the left of the valley edge up the wall over hourglasses to the balcony to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kolbiště
In the left part of the S wall along the crack to the arch, below it traverse right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kolbiště
Through the middle of the right part of the S wall over 2 BHs, higher slightly from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kolbiště
In the right part of the south wall to the balcony up the wall over 2 rings to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kolbiště
In the right part of the massif by a corner and along the E edge over the rock knobs to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kolbiště
Along the right edge (K), higher up the wall to the 2nd ring and slightly diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kolbiště
Up the iron-rich wall (BH) directly to the ring of the Góóóól route and together with it… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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