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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Tool
Along the southern edge over a BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dračí pilíř
In the middle of the valley pillar up the wall, higher by a corner to the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dračí pilíř
Up the wall along the right edge of the pillar (hourglasses) to the corner and through it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Tool
In the left part of the wall by a corner over a BH (bolt hanger) to the rappel BH (bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Dračí pilíř
From the ring of the Krůček stranou route (Step Aside) up the overhanging wall diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kolbiště
Along the right S edge up the wall (or edge) to the BH and directly over the rock knobs… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kolbiště
To the left of the Nestůj v koutě (Don't Stand in the Corner) route (start from the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Tool
Through the middle of the SW smooth slab over a hole (sling anchor/protection) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Maturitní stěna
Up the wall, higher along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
To the right in the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
To the left in the N wall by a notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Maturitní stěna
In the middle of the N wall by a notch over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
To the right in the north wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Potítko
Along the western wall along cracks slightly to the right over 4 bolt hangers to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Maturitní stěna
Through the chimney between the boulder and the summit block, climb onto the boulder and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Maturitní stěna
To the left of Krásná stěnka (Beautiful Wall) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Maturitní stěna
Up the valley edge via a ring and hour-glass formations to a bolt, then directly up an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Maturitní stěna
In the south wall to the left of "Iron Wall" up the wall along the edge, higher by the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Maturitní stěna
To the right in the South wall, up the iron-stained wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Maturitní stěna
In the SW wall, by a crack (ring) and wall (2x hour-glass formations) to a ledge (hour… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
Approximately through the center of the S wall, up the iron-stained wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Maturitní stěna
From the W terrace, right to the notch and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Maturitní stěna
As 'Path above the valley' to the notch and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Maturitní stěna
To the right of 'Question Depression' along the notches, by opposition and edge over 2… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Maturitní stěna
To the left of the 'Last Bell' route, up the wall along the edge to the pulpit, then by a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Maturitní stěna
Up a prominent corner in the valley wall for 5m, then diagonally right on the wall (hour… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hasičárna
To the right of "Fifty-Somethings' Corner" up the wall over a bolt to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hasičárna
From the W by a corner (rappelling point) and up the wall to the summit for rappelling. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hasičárna
In the right part of the S wall, directly to the summit via a bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Maturitní stěna
In the left part of the SW wall, by a crack to the edge to the 1st ring of the 'Last Bell… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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