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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Hasičárna
In the left part of the W couloir, up the iron-stained wall over an overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hasičárna
Up the pillar wall via a ring and hour-glass formation to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hasičárna
In the right part of the W couloir, to the right by a rib to a ledge and up a sloping… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malá loubská stěna
To the left of 'Sigh of Salvation', up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vlastenec
By a prominent corner in the middle of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malá loubská stěna
Up the center of the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vlastenec
Along the slabby left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malá loubská stěna
From the left, along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hasičárna
In the left part of the S wall over the ring, higher along the edge over solution pockets… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Vlastenec
Via the overhanging right valley edge (rappelling bolt). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvouhlavá stěna
From the lowest point up the wall through a hole and along the indentation to a shelf,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Orlí pilíř
Right of the route 'Tanec slunce' (Dance of the Sun) up the wall over 2 BH and rappel to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Orlí pilíř
In the SW pillar via a crack to the pulpit and further up the wall along cracks to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Orlí pilíř
Through the middle of the W face, higher up along the crack to the summit. (rappel) Rock Climbing
6-
Baloun
Overhang along the crack directly into the NW face and via that to the summit. (orange) Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Baloun
Up the SE face over ledges to the summit. (red) Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Baloun
From the left to the NW edge and up the wall along it (hourglass) to the summit. (green) Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baloun
Overhang to the S edge and via it over large tafoni/honeycombs to the summit. (rappel) … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dvouhlavá stěna
Left of the route 'Jižní trhlina' (South Crack) up the wall (from the small pine tree)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Knihovna
In the left part of the S face along cracks, later up the wall near the edge and finally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Knihovna
Through the middle of the W face over 2BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Knihovna
Via the route 'Braková lit...' to the 1st BH. From there right to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Giblink
Along the right edge diagonally left, hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Giblink
Up the strongly overhanging wall over BH to the summit. (rappel) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Dvouhlavá stěna
In the right part of the S face up the wall and through a crack (SM) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Loubská jehla
Up the narrow valley wall, higher up via a crack to the balcony of the "Old Route" and up… Rock Climbing
4-
Loubská jehla
Up the NE edge below the smooth small wall, right along the edge to the ledge and left up… Rock Climbing
4-
Loubská jehla
Start like the "Valley Route". To the right onto the edge of the flake, then follow it… Rock Climbing
3
Loubská jehla
From the plateau side, traverse left to a small balcony in the valley wall and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Loubská jehla
Up the chimney in the S wall to the detached block, then right up the wall and crack to… Rock Climbing

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