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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Terč u Labské stráže
In the middle of the North wall, 2nd fore-rock over an overhang and over concretions, up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Terč u Labské stráže
In the North wall, traverse left to the NE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Terč u Labské stráže
To the left of the Victory route along disturbances and higher left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Terč u Labské stráže
From the viewpoint, descend three easy steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Terč u Labské stráže
Along the first crack to the left of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Terč u Labské stráže
To the right in the valley wall, along cracks diagonally right to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Terč u Labské stráže
Over the overhang, higher along the edge to the ring and further along the "Poetry Seeker… Rock Climbing
3
Terč u Labské stráže
From the West, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Terč u Labské stráže
Along the second crack to the left of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Terč u Labské stráže
From the start of the Poetry Seeker route directly up the wall over K to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
5
Terč u Labské stráže
Start from the upper balcony (to the left of the Poetry Seeker route) along the edge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Terč u Labské stráže
From the large terrace in the middle to another terrace (large hourglass) and along a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Terč u Labské stráže
Along the South edge (to the right of the chimney), higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Labská vyhlídka
In the left part of the wall, up a prominent corner to the summit (abseil). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Labská vyhlídka
To the right of the Kvádradberg corner, up a crack in the pillar to the ledge (ring). Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Terč u Labské stráže
Along the left valley edge, a ring and hourglass to a large balcony. As per the route … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Terč u Labské stráže
To the left of the route "Poetry Watcher", through the middle of the wall (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Leopoldův kámen
From the E, via a crack to the terrace and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Leopoldův kámen
From the shelf in the left part of the valley wall, up the wall to the ring and further… Rock Climbing
2+
Leopoldův kámen
From the East gully to the saddle (can also be descended from the massif) and up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Leopoldův kámen
To the right in the East wall, traverse right into the valley wall to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Leopoldův kámen
Through the middle of the NW wall over an overhang and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Leopoldův kámen
From the shelf in the left part of the valley wall over a large overhang (loop) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Trpasličí pilíř
Up the slab wall over 2 rings and hourglasses to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž Loubské rokle
To the right in the valley wall, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Věž Loubské rokle
In the SE wall, via an overhanging crack to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Věž Loubské rokle
To the left of the route "Open Window" to the ledge and up the overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž Loubské rokle
Via the West edge to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž Loubské rokle
To the right of the valley crack, over the overhang (ring), higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Věž Loubské rokle
3m to the left of the "Valley Crack", directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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