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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8
Bentová tvrz
Over the overhang to 1st K and by the wall over 2nd K into the corner and through it… Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
Through the center of the W wall over K into a crack, higher up along the edge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
Through the center of the wall of the prominent pillar along fine cracks upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
To the left in the S wall of the separate turret by the wall to a ledge and from there to… Rock Climbing
5
Bentová tvrz
By the right edge of the separate turret to a ledge and further along the edge upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Bentová tvrz
Through the center of the S wall of the separate turret from the ledge by the wall over K… Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
From a deep corner to the left of the 'Ray of Hope' route through a crack and higher up… Rock Climbing
3
Bentová tvrz
By the left corner higher up through the chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Bentová tvrz
By the overhanging small pillar to the right in the W wall over ledges to K. To the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bentová tvrz
By the SW edge to the corner, through it to the pillar (protection), further by a double… Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
By the overhanging wall to the balcony, from there by a small rock pinnacle and wall to K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bentová tvrz
Through the middle of the wall via a small pillar to the ledge (step), from there left up… Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
By the wall between C. Watching Eye and Recipe for Happiness directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Bentová tvrz
By the right corner below the summit over a wedged block upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Bentová tvrz
By the overhanging wall to the ledge to 1st K, to the right by a crack to the balcony to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bentová tvrz
Up the wall over BH into the gully and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bentová tvrz
Left of the dividing chimney up the corner (BH), then right through the indentation to… Rock Climbing
4
Bentová tvrz
Right of the chimney via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bentová tvrz
Along the left edge of Lubor's route chimney to the ledge and left into a deep crack,… Rock Climbing
3
Bentová tvrz
Right in the wall via a crack into the inner space, further via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Bentová tvrz
In the right part of the E wall via two cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bentová tvrz
Along the N edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kóta 4
From NE via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Bentová tvrz
In the right part of the NW wall via the wall and the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Bentová tvrz
Via a prominent crack in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kóta 4
In the right part of the NW wall via a small pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kóta 4
Along the N edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Bentová tvrz
Through the middle of the E wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 5
Up the narrow SW wall over BH to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 5
Up the wall left to the edge, along that (K) to the top. Rock Climbing

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