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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Havraní jehla
From the left onto the fore-rock in the SW wall, up and right into a crack, along it… Rock Climbing
5
Havraní jehla
Up a smooth wall along the edge to a step and higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Havraní jehla
With the edge onto a slanting platform, a double crack to the right upwards into the… Rock Climbing
4+
Havraní jehla
From the east up the wall to the ring and slightly left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Krkavčí hrad
Through the middle of the narrow pillar of the SW wall via cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Krkavčí hrad
Far left in the valley wall up the wall along the edge to the saddle and along the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Krkavčí hrad
In the left part of the W wall, from the large platform over steps to the attached rock.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Havraní jehla
From the left up the wall to the fore-rock in the SW wall, up and left to the ring, along… Rock Climbing
6
Krkavčí hrad
From the large platform in the W wall, same as "Buy Wings" to the 1st ring. Left up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Krkavčí hrad
From the overgrown platform over a step into the corner and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Krkavčí hrad
In the fall line of the right edge of the narrow pillar up the wall to a step. Via a… Rock Climbing
3
Havraní cimbuří
Along the S edge using iron holds to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Krkavčí hrad
Through the middle of the SE wall via a crack under the overhang, over it to the ledge,… Rock Climbing
4+
Krkavčí hrad
Left in the wall by a small crack, then along the edge over overhanging steps to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Krkavčí hrad
To the right in the SE face briefly via a crack to a step and to the left along the edge… Rock Climbing
5
Krkavčí hrad
Along the edge over steps to the 1st ring, left via a hand crack into the corner, from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Krkavčí hrad
In the SE wall from the block up the wall into the corner and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Havraní cimbuří
To the right of the Old Way via a small pillar and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Krkavčí hrad
To the right in the SW wall from the corner via a wide crack curving slightly to the left… Rock Climbing
5
Krkavčí hrad
From the large platform via cracks through the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Havraní cimbuří
Along the SW edge over ledges into a niche in the face. From there via a crack or to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Havraní cimbuří
To the left of the corner via an overhanging face to the ledge, then right to a short rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Havraní cimbuří
Along the narrow NW edge to 1st K, via a hollow to a large platform. Up the face and a… Rock Climbing
4-
Havraní cimbuří
From the N via an overhanging iron-rich face to the platform and to the right via a short… Rock Climbing
2+
Havraní cimbuří
Through a wide gully in the NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Havraní cimbuří
Up the face to the left of the iron path to BH, over an overhang and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Havraní cimbuří
Briefly up the chimney to the valley fore-rock. In the middle of the face over K to the… Rock Climbing
2
Havraní cimbuří
Via the NE slab and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Havraní cimbuří
From the saddle via the SE edge using iron holds to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Havraní cimbuří
Up the face of the valley fore-rock to the platform. To the right in the face via a crack… Rock Climbing

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