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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Rybniční hráz
Up the valley wall to a ledge and to the right via a slab to the edge, then along it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rybniční hráz
To the left of "St. c." (Old route) via the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Mogman
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Rybniční hráz
Via the short plateau wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rybniční hráz
Along the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rybniční hráz
In the right part of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rybniční hráz
Along the West edge to a ledge, then up the wall and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rybniční hráz
On the left in the plateau wall via a hand crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Rybniční hráz
To the right of the "Plateau route" along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Podmokelská věž
In the corner at the NW edge, higher up the edge (ring) to the 2nd ring of the route "Hip… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Podmokelská věž
From the start of "It Pulls on the Hands" to the right behind the edge (fixed ring) and… Rock Climbing
8
Podmokelská věž
Up the crack of the route "It Pulls on the Hands" to its end. Traverse left into an… Rock Climbing
7
Podmokelská věž
In the right part of the NE wall, up a narrow crack to its end and traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Podmokelská věž
From the saddle, hand-traversing along the ledge to the right and up a short wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Podmokelská věž
Via the "Traverse Route" about 2m and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Podmokelská věž
(By standing) at the NW edge onto the ledge and traverse right to the ring. Right onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Podmokelská věž
Along the upper (E) edge. Rock Climbing
4
Podmokelská věž
From the saddle, up the SE wall to the left to a small crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Podmokelská věž
Start between "Friendship Route" and "Friendship Route Variant", directly up the crack to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Podmokelská věž
Via the route "Hip, hap, hop" over the 1st ring and directly up the wall to the ring of … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Podmokelská věž
Up the center of the S wall via 3 bolts to the summit. Note: Originally 1 ring Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Podmokelská věž
To the left in the S wall, a crack with an overhanging start, then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2
Podmokelská věž
Along the ledge in the upper wall to the left to the SE edge and to the left of it or… Rock Climbing
7
Podmokelská věž
To the right in the S wall, a fine crack over the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Podmokelská věž
In the valley (W) wall diagonally right and along the SW edge to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Podmokelská věž
Along the SE edge to the ledge. Rock Climbing
1
Pizarro
Left uphill edge via a small balcony n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pizarro
Right uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pizarro
Left part of the South wall to the balcony of the "Old Route". Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pizarro
Valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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