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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Havraní stěna - severní
Right of the SW edge via a crack and wall (K) to the balcony and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havraní stěna - severní
Right of "Left route" via a corner to a ledge and a double crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Havraní stěna - severní
Directly over the overhang of the W wall to the top (see photo) Rock Climbing
4
Havraní stěna - severní
Right corner in the W wall to the balcony below the summit and as "Western route" to the… Rock Climbing
4
Havraní stěna - severní
In the left part of the S wall into a niche, from the left into a chimney, then left… Rock Climbing
5
Severovýchodní masiv
Right in the S wall diagonally into a hole, short crack and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Severovýchodní masiv
SE stepped edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Starý hrad
Left of the "West Gate" along a ramp from the corner up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Severovýchodní masiv
Left of the SW edge by a crack to a ledge into the S wall, by a short wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Severovýchodní masiv
Left of the "Crack in the Middle" by a wall over an overhang to a balcony and along the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Severovýchodní masiv
Through the center of the S wall by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Starý hrad
About 10m from the "South Crack" by a corner and a narrow chimney up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Starý hrad
Right in the S wall by a crack up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Starý hrad
Right of the "West Gate" by a wall and a small corner up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Starý hrad
Left of the "South Crack" by a short wall to a ledge, by a wall over an edge up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Starý hrad
Right of the "West Route" by a crack to a ledge, by a short wall over an edge up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Starý hrad
Right of the "South Chimney" by a wall to a ledge, by a corner crack up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Starý hrad
Through the center of the W wall via a bolt hanger (BH) up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Starý hrad
Between the "South Crack" and "Dulcínea..." by a wall over an overhang (BH) up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Starý hrad
Left of the "East Chimney" by a wall via a bolt hanger (BH) up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Starý hrad
Between "Don Quijote" and "Miguel de Cervantes" by a wall to a ledge, over an overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Starý hrad
Left of "Don Quijote" by a wall to a balcony, over an overhang to a ring and to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Starý hrad
Like "Dulzímea..." to the ring and by a wall to the right up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Starý hrad
Through the center of the E wall by a chimney up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Starý hrad
From the start of the "East Chimney" to the right along an edge up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Starý hrad
Right of the "South Crack" by a wall to a balcony, over an overhang to a ring and by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Starý hrad
Left of the "Old Route" by a crack in a niche up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Starý hrad
Right of the "East Chimney" by a wall and a crack via a bolt hanger (BH) up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Starý hrad
Right in the E wall via a ring up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Starý hrad
By a crack in the narrow N pillar up. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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