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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Pomocná škola
From the overhanging corner to the pre-summit and lightly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
From the crack on the North side, right to the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Větrná věž - východní vrchol
Left of the valley SW face, via a crack to the saddle and by the Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Pomocná škola
Through the crack in the SW edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Pomocná škola
Up the middle of the S wall over a hole to the 1st K and 2nd K, through a recess to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Pomocná škola
To the left in the SW wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Pomocná škola
In the main wall, to the right of the 'Rákoska' route, into a large hole to K and to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pomocná škola
Along the edge to the pillar. Overhang into the wall and along the edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocná škola
In the left part of the S wall, over a hole to K. Left along the cracks along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pomocná škola
To the right in the SW wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Pomocná škola
In the right part of the wall, from a step over a hole to the fore-rock and from there to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Informátor
Through the left chimney in the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Pomocná škola
Diagonally right up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Pomocná škola
To the right of the main wall, via a curved edge (K) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Informátor
In the right part of the left S wall, up the wall along the edge of the chimney. Directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Informátor
To the left of the 'Rodiny výlet' route, directly over 2 holes to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Informátor
In the left part of the left S wall, along the crack into a hole. Then directly up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Pomocná škola
From the start of the 'Šikmá cesta' (Sloping Route), via a small pillar to K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Informátor
In the right part of the S wall directly over a hole to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Informátor
In the left part of the central S wall, via a small pillar and the wall into a hole. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7+/8-
Informátor
Up the middle of the NE wall and right into the ledge and overhang to K. Continue… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Informátor
Up the middle of the NE wall (like the 'Co to' route). Then directly up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Informátor
Along the right edge of the S wall directly up the wall into a recess and through it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8-/8
Informátor
Along the SE edge higher up to the right into the holes (1st K). Then left to the edge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Informátor
In the N wall, higher up in the corner, through holes to the left to the NE edge (K) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Informátor
Directly up the right chimney of the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Informátor
Briefly through the wall into a hole (hourglass). From the hole to the right and directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Jubilejní skála
Middle of the SE face directly to the ring and up the wall to the top (note: 'n. t.'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Informátor
Completely on the right in the N wall through a narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Jubilejní skála
Completely left in the S face onto the fore-rock, via small cracks (K) and a small pillar… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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