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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Studentská věž
Left of the NW edge via a crack upwards to the chimney. Rock Climbing
2
Studentská věž
Via the chimney in the East wall upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Terasa
From the gorge via iron-stained holds to the right into the crack and upwards. Rock Climbing
2+
Terasa
In the East wall via a notch and a crack upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Terasa
In the narrow NE wall (plateau side) via a short gully/groove to K. Up the wall into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Terasa
In the left part of the North wall via small cracks into an indentation and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Terasa
From the gorge in the North wall via an overhang/traverse to the hole and right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Terasa
In the North wall to the right via a crack to a step and right to the edge. From there to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Terasa
On the East side from the block via a notch. Rock Climbing
5
Neuberova stěna
Left part of the West face to K. Further to the ledge and from there up the iron wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Terasa
Left of Neubert's Wall via the SW edge upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Neuberova stěna
From the bivouac on the SW edge, via an overhanging crack to the balcony. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Terasa
From Neubert's Wall upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Neuberova stěna
Right in the West face, via a gully/corner to K. Along the small cracks to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Neuberova stěna
Up the center of the narrow S wall via an overhang to the 1st K. Up the wall and crack to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Neuberova stěna
Up the wall to the left along the rounded SE edge (K) into the crack, then up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Neuberova stěna
Up the SE edge to the large hourglass. To the right and via a depression to another large… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Neuberova stěna
South wall to the left onto the edge, along it (K) to the balcony. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Neuberova stěna
At the entrance to the chimney, via a crack in the W wall of the right peak to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Neuberova stěna
Right in the valley wall, up the wall and a wide chimney to the K (bolt/ring). Into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Pásová věž
From the edge of the massif, from a prominent protrusion, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Pásová věž
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Pásová věž
From the massif, descend and step over (jump) to the summit (no rope/no top). Rock Climbing
5
Pásová věž
Up the center of the wall to K. To the right into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kýsova stěna
To the left of the Banded Tower, up the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Pásová věž
To the right in the valley wall diagonally through cracks under the overhang and up it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Pásová věž
Up the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Pásová věž
Up the slanted depression in the SW wall under a small crack, up it to K. Further up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kýsova stěna
Up the crack into the niche and an overhanging small crack to K. To the left along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kýsova stěna
Through cracks into a large hole and further via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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