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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Stříbrná stěna
To the right on the valley side, up the wall over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Stříbrná stěna
To the right of the East route, up the wall over 2 rings, higher up via the East route's… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stříbrná stěna
Completely to the right on the valley side to the block. Up the wall over 3 rings to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Stříbrná stěna
Like the Northeast route to the detached block. Traverse left to the edge and up it over… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Stříbrná stěna
To the right in the S wall from the balcony, an overhang and up the wall over 2 rings,… Rock Climbing
2+
Stříbrná stěna
From the large platform on the E side, turn right and via a short chimney to a large… Rock Climbing
2
Stříbrná stěna
On the plateau side, briefly via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hrot stříbrné stěny
From the massif, descend via a slanting chimney to the plateau, then like the Old route… Rock Climbing
5
Hrot stříbrné stěny
To the right of the Wild Gorge route, from the left, via a corner over an overhang and… Rock Climbing
3
Hrot stříbrné stěny
To the right of the Old route in the gorge, via the left chimney to a detached block,… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Stříbrné stěny
About 2m right of the Old route, via a gully to a large balcony. Up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing
5+
Hrot stříbrné stěny
From the West, up the wall to the platform, traverse right behind the edge into the… Rock Climbing
3
Hrot stříbrné stěny
In the center of the valley wall, via a crack to the balcony and like the Old route to… Rock Climbing
2
Hrot stříbrné stěny
From the West, via the chimney to the saddle, then right across the platform and up the E… Rock Climbing
2+
Hrot stříbrné stěny
To the right in the valley wall, via the chimney to the platform below the summit, and… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Stříbrné stěny
About 10m right of the Old route, via a gully with an overhanging start to an overgrown… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Strážce Stříbrné stěny
From the East, via an overgrown gully to the ledge. Up the chimney from E or S to the… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Stříbrné stěny
Via the valley chimney over several balconies to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce Stříbrné stěny
From the base of the fore-rock in the valley wall, via an overhanging corner to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce Stříbrné stěny
About 6m left of the Valley route via a slabby gully to the balcony (also possible from N… Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce Stříbrné stěny
Like the East route to the ledge, through the window to the SE edge and up that to the… Rock Climbing
2
Strážce Stříbrné stěny
Via the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Stříbrný masiv
About 12m left of the Angel's Corner route, over an overhang to a diagonally right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Stříbrný masiv
The entrance is about 20m to the right of the tunnel, where in the massif there is access… Rock Climbing
5+
Stříbrný masiv
About 25m left of the Poultry Cut route, up an overhanging corner to a large balcony and… Rock Climbing
2+
Stříbrný roh
From the Silver Wall massif, in SW direction over the pre-summits to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Stříbrný roh
As Southwest Route to the 2nd balcony. Traverse left into the center of the N wall and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stříbrný roh
From the base of the wall, along the SW edge to the balcony. Over an overhang and left of… Rock Climbing
6
Stříbrný roh
As Southwest Route to the balcony. Up the wall slightly diagonally right over the 1st… Rock Climbing
6
Stříbrný roh
As Southwest Route through the corner to the 2nd terrace. From the right to the NW edge,… Rock Climbing

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