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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Karlova stěna
Left in the South face by the overhanging wall over the ring directly to the 1st ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Karlova stěna
By the crack in the middle of the South face over K to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Karlova stěna
Completely to the left in the valley wall by the rib and wall over 5 bolts to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Karlova stěna
Left of the route 'Forgotten Legend' directly by the wall (2K) to the K of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Karlova stěna
By the valley crack to the 2nd ring by the rib and wall diagonally right over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Volební stěna
Completely to the right between Volební and Karlova wall, diagonally right (2 BH) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Karlova stěna
Between route 'Wild Romsdal' and 'Somersaults of a Restless Life' by the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Karlova stěna
By the large corner from the South (K) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Karlova stěna
Through the middle of the South face by the crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Karlova stěna
Like 'Wild Romsdal' to K and diagonally right by the wall under the overhang (hourglass).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Hladká věž
From the ledge of Piskoř's Pillar, move to the ledge. Easily to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hladká věž
Through the crack in the NE wall, then left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hladká věž
From the saddle along the NW edge (first left, then right of it). Rock Climbing
6-
Hladká věž
Along the plateau (NE) edge and higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Hladká věž
To the right of the Old Route, directly up the wall via BH to the ledge (hourglass on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hladká věž
From the E edge traverse left to the ledge and up the wall to K. Left along the edge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hladká věž
From the saddle from the NW edge traverse right to K. Up the wall diagonally right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hladká věž
To the right on the valley wall through the gully and over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hladká věž
In the left part of the valley wall through a crack. From the right over the overhang,… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hladká věž
To the right of the 'Moment of Decision' route up the wall through a hole to K. Slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Hladká věž
Along the E edge (2K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Nevlídná věž
Up the right crack in the valley wall to the overhang, diagonally left and up the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Nevlídná věž
Up the crack in the SW wall diagonally left to the W edge and along that to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Nevlídná věž
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
?
Nevlídná věž
From the NE corner in the massif to the ledge and a traverse/jump to the summit of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4-
Nevlídná věž
Up the left crack in the valley wall to the balcony and along the edge, higher up via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Nevlídná věž
From the NE edge diagonally left over the overhang and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Kouzelná panenka
Up the face and crack to the right of the Voodoo route over 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Poblion
From the small cave at the valley edge, from the left to the 1st BH and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Leporelo
In the center of the valley wall to the chimney and by it to the end under the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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