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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Koberec
All the way to the right, just before the Last Tower, up the wall and through the crack… Rock Climbing
5
Růžová palice
In the upper wall obliquely left to the balcony (K) and right via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Koberec
Up the overhanging wall into a narrow chimney and through it to a large platform. Further… Rock Climbing
2+
Doutníček
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Koberec
Up the wall directly into the crack of the 'Exhibition Route'. Follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Koberec
Through the wide crack to the right of the edge into a large cave and up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
6
Koberec
To the right of the left valley edge, up the wall over 2K below the large overhang. To… Rock Climbing
5+
Koberec
Up the wall along the edge over two holes to the K. Traverse left into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Koberec
To the left of 'Bohouš's Route', up the wall with an overhanging start over 2K to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Koberec
To the left of the 'Exhibition Route' via the right or left crack, later through the… Rock Climbing
5+
Doutník
Through the middle of the West face via a crack to its end at the bolt. Left and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Doutníček
In the right part of the uphill face along a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Doutník
Via a crack and higher up a corner below the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Doutník
From the massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Doutníček
Along the crack in the valley to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Doutník
Via the stemming chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Doutník
From the chimney to the left and via a fine crack along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lavice důchodců
West edge Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lavice důchodců
Via a small gully/chimney from the uphill side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Doutník
Via the right valley edge over the 1st bolt to the 2nd bolt and left over an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Doutník
Along the left valley edge over 2 pitons, higher up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lavice důchodců
To the right on the valley side wall Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Doutník
Via a crack, higher up a corner to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Lavice důchodců
North edge Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lavice důchodců
Short crack on the NE. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Privát
Left of the Chimney Route, a crack to the shelf, then left via a chimney to the massif,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lavice důchodců
Via a small wall from the valley to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Privát
In the valley NW face to the chimney/gully, then under the overhang (pitons) and right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Privát
From the massif from the east, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Privát
Via a chimney from the South to the platform, then left via a crack, then via the wall to… Rock Climbing

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