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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Privát
To the right in the South face over an overhang to the 1st bolt. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing
5
Privát
At the base of the tower via a chimney/gully, higher up a crack to the end of the notch… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Privát
From the platform slightly to the right via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Privát
From the NW via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Labská věž
Through the middle of the plateau wall to the bolt (K) and slightly right up the wall to… Rock Climbing
2
Labská věž
To the left in the plateau wall via the chimney. Rock Climbing
6-
Labská věž
About 5m to the right of the "Old Route," directly up the wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Labská věž
Via the NE edge and to the right through a short chimney to the ledge. Rock Climbing
3
Labská věž
To the right in the uphill face, traverse via a crack to the ledge, then traverse right… Rock Climbing
5
Labská věž
Between the "Plateau Crack" and the "Plateau Route," up the wall to a ledge and then… Rock Climbing
5+
Labská věž
From the bolt (K) diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Labská věž
Like the "Northeast Route" to the ledge and then left up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Labská věž
To the left of the "Southeast Route," up a small crack to the bolt (K) and diagonally… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Labská věž
To the right of the "Valley Corner" route, up the wall to the bolt (K). Continue up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Labská věž
From the platform in the chimney, step right into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Labská věž
S edge (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Labská věž
To the right in the valley wall via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Labská věž
To the right of the "West Chimney," up the wall along small cracks to the bolt (K). Up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Labská věž
Completely to the right in the valley wall, up the overhanging wall to a small pinnacle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Labská věž
About 3m to the left of the "Old Route," up a small pinnacle and a wall to a platform,… Rock Climbing
5+
Labská věž
In the middle of the valley wall, through the corner and overhanging crack to the end,… Rock Climbing
5+
Labská věž
To the right of the "Northwest Route," up the edge (hour-glasses) to a platform under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Labská věž
In the S corner, a wide crack with an overhanging start to a large balcony and, like the … Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Labská věž
To the left of the Valley Corner, up the wall and along cracks to the 1st bolt (K). Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kamarádská věž
From the massif descend to the ledge, traverse and to the right up a short crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Labská věž
To the right of the NE edge up a smooth wall (K) under the overhang, diagonally right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Kamarádská věž
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Labská věž
To the left in the valley wall, via cracks to a large balcony and then up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
6-
Labská věž
To the left of the "Northwest Route," diagonally left up the wall to the 1st bolt (K). Up… Rock Climbing
5
Labská věž
To the left of the NW edge via an overhanging crack to a ledge and a small wall to a… Rock Climbing

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