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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Tramp
From the NE, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tramp
From the right onto the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Brok
Up the middle of the West face over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Tramp
From the NE, up the chimney into the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tramp
Up the middle of the NE face to the abseil anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Brok
Up the middle of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brok
To the right of the route "High Leg", up the wall over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Purkrabí
In the right part of the W face by wall to the balcony, along the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Purkrabí
Through the passage chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Brok
Near the E edge, up the wall to the left through the hole to the ring, then up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Brok
In the left part of the E face via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Brok
From the right onto the SE edge to the ring, up the wall and along the edge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Brok
To the left of the Old Route, up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Brok
To the right of the route 'Hit the Black', along the edge and up the wall to the left to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Brok
To the right of route Five Crosses, up the wall via 2BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Purkrabí
In the right part of the valley wall along the crack to the balcony (hourglass) and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tlustý hrabě
Middle of the upper wall, to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Tlustý hrabě
From the massif from the NW, descend to the ledge and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Purkrabí
Up the middle of the W face (ring) to the summit. (abseiling) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Tlustý hrabě
From the gully between the tower and the massif to the right and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Tlustý hrabě
Left of "Smooth", over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Purkrabí
Up the middle of the E face to the balcony, from there by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Purkrabí
To the left of the Tichošlápek route, along the edge to the pulpit and along the crack to… Rock Climbing
4+
Tlustý hrabě
Middle of the valley wall, via crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tlustý hrabě
From the "Banana Peel" circle, left and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Tlustý hrabě
In the E wall, via chimney to the plateau and via overhanging chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Tlustý hrabě
Right in the valley wall, via crack to the ledge and along the wall to K. Right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Tlustý hrabě
In the W wall, over a large overhang into a wide crack and by that to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustý hrabě
Left of the "Valley Crack", via crack to 1st K. Along the wall into the notch, left to… Rock Climbing
3
Tlustý hrabě
Left of the corner, around the large pine tree to the plateau and as "Northeast Ridge" to… Rock Climbing

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