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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Pavlač
From W, through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the saddle, and via the … Rock Climbing
4+
Pavlač
To the left of the "Jde slunce spát" (The Sun Goes to Sleep) route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Pavlač
From the lower terrace, in the lower wall to the left, via the crack to the upper terrace… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pavlač
To the left of the "Klikatá spára" (Winding Crack), over the overhang (ring) along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlok
Along the left valley edge into the hole (right, pocket) and higher up the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mlok
To the right on the SE wall along the overhanging edge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mlok
Through the center of the valley wall to K, up the wall and right along the gully to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Mlok
In the middle of the SE wall over holes and up the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Duhová věž
From the gorge diagonally right to the balcony, then either left by crack, or right by… Rock Climbing
3
Duhová věž
From the balcony directly through the hole into the valley wall and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Duhová věž
From the boulder at the left plateau edge, left beyond the edge and diagonally left up… Rock Climbing
3
Duhová věž
From the balcony traverse right to the valley wall and there to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Duhová věž
Diagonally left up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Duhová věž
Via the West wall directly over 2K and further right along the edge to the 2nd K of the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Duhová věž
To the right on the valley wall (between the routes 'Whisper of Flowers' and 'Path of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Duhová věž
Via the left valley edge to the 1st K and further into the hole. Traverse left (hourglass… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Duhová věž
Via the NW edge (K) directly to the 2nd K of the route "Teeth and Nails" and thence to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Duhová věž
On the wall diagonally left over 2BH to the balcony and optionally to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Duhová věž
Via the right valley edge to K. Left and then right via the wall into a small crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Duhová věž
From the hole above the 1st K directly upwards (dK), via the rib and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Duhová stěna
To the right in the SE wall via the left of the two cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Duhová stěna
From the balcony on the S corner of the massif (at the start of Relay). In the right half… Rock Climbing
6-
Duhová stěna
To the right of the "SE Crack" via the wall and rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Duhová stěna
Through the center of the SE wall from the lower part via a crack to the ledge. Via a… Rock Climbing
6-
Duhová stěna
From the ledge in the SE wall via the overhanging wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Duhová stěna
In the left part of the SE wall from the lower part via a double crack to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Duhová stěna
From the ledge at the S edge via a small chimney/arete (sokolík) circle over the overhang… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Duhová stěna
Like "Beggars' Gallery" to the spur and left over the spikes to the 1st K. Upwards and… Rock Climbing
5+
Duhová stěna
Via the valley chimney to the spur and diagonally right into the hole (K). Right under… Rock Climbing
4+
Duhová stěna
Via the valley chimney and a wide crack in the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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