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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Vezír
Right of the start of the "Valley Route" through a crack and along the edge (ring) to a… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Vezír
Left of the "Aladdin's Lamp" route, along the edge over 3 rings to the ring of the "Seven… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Vezír
Up the Valley Route, higher directly along the edge over two bolts to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vezír
Right in the valley wall through a dihedral and up the wall to a large platform and left… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Vezír
Left of Ratata from the lowest point along the edge (3 bolts), left over the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Vezír
Via the "Ratata" route without building to a large balcony. Like "Seagulls' Route" to the… Rock Climbing
6
Vezír
Up the wall left of the "West Crack" over 4 rings to the summit of the massif. Like … Rock Climbing
5
Vezír
Left in the West wall into the chimney and through it under the overhang (ring). Through… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vezír
Up the narrow valley (West) wall (2 rings) to the traverse of the "Seagulls' Route" … Rock Climbing
4+
Vezír
Left of the "Carthage" route, through the corner to the summit of the massif. Like … Rock Climbing
8-/8
Vezír
From the 3rd ring of the Alibaba route, directly up the wall into a hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tatrman
From the 1st ring of the route "Life Bites Me", climb up to the ledge and left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Tatrman
From the 2nd ring to the right and through the crack, higher up the rib back to the 3rd… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Tatrman
Through the crack and wall along the right edge of the pillar over 2 rings, higher… Rock Climbing
4-
Tatrman
In the corner between the left and right pillar, via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Tatrman
Through the left part of the wall directly over 3 rings, higher over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Tatrman
Up the middle of the left pillar via 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Živá stěna
Directly up the center of the SW face over 3 rings to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Živá stěna
Up the chimney in the middle of the massif, higher through a crawl to the right onto the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Živá stěna
From the terrace behind the beech tree, up the right part of the wall through a hole over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Živá stěna
To the right of the corner on the west side, up the wall along the NW edge over 2 bolts,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Živá stěna
To the left of the Zombie route directly up the wall over 2 bolts to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Živá stěna
To the left of the route "Memory of Trees" behind the large beech tree, up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Živá stěna
Start as the Technoparty route via the crack to the end, then up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Živá stěna
Up the wall along the right valley edge over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Živá stěna
From the edge to the 1st ring via a small crack over 2 rings to the belay bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Živá stěna
In the middle of the wall along the crack, higher obliquely left to the ring. (Also… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Živá stěna
In the left part of the N face, to the right of the chimney, via a small pillar and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Mrtvá stěna
To the right of the route "Minute of Silence" through the corner to a horizontal crack… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Živá stěna
Small pillars in the fall line of the right part of the overhang, higher up the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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