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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Duhová stěna
Via the chimney to the right of "Beggars' Gallery" to its end, upwards and from the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Duhová stěna
Via cracks and the wall in the left part of the valley wall to K. Via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Duhová stěna
From the 1st K of "Noon Heat" traverse left to the edge. Along it via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Duhová stěna
Left of the "Corner Crack" via a double crack, higher up via a crack over an overhang to… Rock Climbing
4+
Duhová stěna
Up the center of the wall via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Duhová stěna
From the terrace from the NW via a large corner in the right part of the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Duhová stěna
Along the route "Step from Paradise" to the 1st K and diagonally right upwards over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lofas
Through a wide crack into a small cave and directly over an overhang to the balcony. Up… Rock Climbing
6-
Duhová stěna
In the left part of the NW wall, through a crack to the end and right through another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Lofas
Right of the route "Lofasádo like a tornado", through the corner and crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing
6-
Lofas
Along the left valley edge up the wall to K. Along the edge and through a gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Lofas
Up the valley wall to the block at K. Directly and diagonally left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Vezír
From the plateau side via an indentation to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vezír
About 2.5m right of the "Old Route" up the wall, higher via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vezír
About 5m right of the "Old Route" up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vezír
From the N, from the boulder, an overhang and then up a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Vezír
From the boulder, along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vezír
About 3m left of the "Old Route" up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Vezír
Through the crack of Aladdin's lamp (left clock) to the end and up the wall (3 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Vezír
Right in the S wall from the corner into a horizontal hole. From there, left up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Vezír
in the south wall to the right of the south crack, via a corner into the ledge and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vezír
Through a crack in the S wall to a large platform, then via an overhanging crack, higher… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vezír
3m left of the start of the "Seven Winds" route, diagonally left through a crack into a… Rock Climbing
6
Vezír
Through a narrow crack in the S wall to a horizontal notch and traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vezír
From the horizontal notch, up the wall over K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vezír
From the South side, traverse left to a large platform in the valley wall. Up the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Vezír
Right of the starting corner of the Valley Route, up the middle of the small wall (using… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vezír
Like the "Valley Route" to a large platform, from the left edge up the wall left to a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vezír
Left in the valley wall (climbing) through a narrow crack that forks higher up into a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vezír
Left of the start of the "Valley Route" up the wall (ring) to a large platform. Along the… Rock Climbing

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