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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Živá stěna
In the left part of the wall over a large ear to a crack and left to the 1st ring under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mrtvá stěna
To the left of the overgrown corner via an interrupted crack (2K), higher up the wall to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Mrtvá stěna
From the 4th bolt of the route "Life is a Miracle" up the wall to the 5th bolt into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Mrtvá stěna
To the right of the route "Sad Moments" up the wall over 4 bolts and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mrtvá stěna
To the left of the "Psycho" route, up the wall into the overhanging corner and via it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mrtvá stěna
In the middle of the wall via a crack to the ledge. Traverse right and up a crack in the… Rock Climbing
6-
Mrtvá stěna
5 meters right of the start of the "FIRST FLUSH" route via a small corner and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mrtvá stěna
Along the SW edge (K), higher through the middle of the pillar (2K) to the pedestal, via… Rock Climbing
6-
Mrtvá stěna
To the left of the valley (W) edge, via a fine crack into the hole. Up the crack, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mrtvá stěna
In the left part of the wall (5m right of the chimney) up the wall and dihedral into the… Rock Climbing
5
Skleněný vrch
From S, up the chimney between the tower and the massif to about half height, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Skleněný vrch
Via the "Old Route" to the saddle and up the left gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Skleněný vrch
From S, up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the saddle and via the "Old… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Mrtvá stěna
In the left part of the west face, up the wall over 5 rings to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Skleněný vrch
From the chimney between the tower and the pillar, via a crack and up the wall right to… Rock Climbing
6
Skleněný vrch
Like "Crystal Traverse" to the ledge and via the crack to K. Up to the ledge and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Mrtvá stěna
Start left of the "Second Flash" route up the wall to the 1st ring. Directly into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Skleněný vrch
From the massif, descend to the saddle and up the right gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Skleněný vrch
Through a break in the right part of the valley wall to K. Over the overhang and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Skleněný vrch
From S, via the crack to the holes (hourglasses), traverse through them into the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Skleněný vrch
In the S wall, approx. 5 meters left of the chimney of the Crystal Traverse, along a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Skleněný vrch
From the 1st ring of the Vějíř route directly up the center of the wall over 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Skleněný vrch
In the right part of the valley wall through a break for about 8m and left to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
6-
Skleněný vrch
Up the chimney at the NE edge for about 15m, then right to the platform (1st K). Right up… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Skleněný vrch
Left in the valley along the edge over 2K, higher from the right to 3. K. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Skleněný vrch
From the start of the IQ-150 route, follow the crack to its end and left over the bolt to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Skleněný vrch
From the start of the "Crystal Traverse" route, traverse left in the hole to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Skleněný vrch
From the gorge from Vřesová Tower via the left crack to the balcony, traverse right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Skleněný vrch
Along the NE edge below the roof-like overhang and via a crack over two overhangs to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Cvičenec
Along the N valley edge directly to the main summit. Rock Climbing

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