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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Cvičenec
To the left in the East face, via a small crack to the balcony and up the small wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Cvičenec
On the NW side, by stemming between the secondary and main summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Strážce mýtiny
To the right of the tower, through the gorge into 2/3 of the massif and along the ledge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
2+
Miliduch
From the gorge on the plateau side from the left along the slabby edge to the pinnacle… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Miliduch
On the valley NE side from the gully to the right of the starting balcony of the route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Miliduch
Along the SW edge from the right side (in the middle part about 2 meters on the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
3
Miliduch
Through the initial crack of the route Nestvůrno to the end, up by opposition against the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Miliduch
From the massif descend, at the level of the summit from the left along an indistinct… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Miliduch
From the gorge on the plateau side through a short crack, traverse right and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Babský ucho
From the terrace above the left pillar of Babské ucho (Old Wive's Ear), from the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Čapí hnízdo
Along the right edge of the right pillar over 2 BH to the rappel point of the Rosie route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Čapí hnízdo
On the right pillar in the left part of the wall over 2 BH upwards and left to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Čapí hnízdo
On the right pillar via a shallow indentation over BH to the rappel. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Labská panna
From the massif descend, jump from standing to the start of the crack and "PLK Route" to… Rock Climbing
5
Důchodový pilíř
Right of the route 'Early Retirement', up the wall along the fissures (K), higher up via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Ostruha
On the upper pillar from the valley side, from the pine tree, up the wall left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ostruha
In the right part of the North face, up the wall along the edge (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Důchodový pilíř
In the middle of the wall, up the crack to the 3rd BH of the route "Pension Pillar" to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Ostruha
Up the center of the S wall via BH directly to the summit. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ostruha
Up the center of the valley wall via BH to the summit for abseiling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Ostruha
In the left part of the North face of the lower pillar, up the crack to the saddle and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ostruha
In the right part of the valley wall via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Jižní Tyršova věž
From the fallen block, jump/step over to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Jižní Tyršova věž
From the right, from the fallen block, descend 2m and step/climb over into the upper face… Rock Climbing
6
Důchodový pilíř
Up the fissure, wall and left along the edge, finally again up the wall past 3 bolted… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Jižní Tyršova věž
Left in the East face, up the crack to the balcony, and left past the edge via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Jižní Tyršova věž
From the gully from the East to the saddle and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jižní Tyršova věž
Up the chimney in the South face, higher up via the broken crack to K. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Jižní Tyršova věž
From the fallen block, from the abseil K, descend 3m along the edge to the ledge. Step… Rock Climbing
2+
Severní Tyršova věž
From the gully briefly into the chimney between the massif and the fore-summit, passage… Rock Climbing

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